Hi all, got a 2011 QR Five with 160mm slants. Had it for two years and thinking of getting a frame change in the not too distant future as I mainly seem to be riding downhill , with the odd 20-40miler in the peak district. I love the five, but I think something 160mm would be more fun and much faster at wharncliffe.

Looking at £600 frames, such as the meta sx, last herb and alpine, however I think the chances of me getting the commencal or last at that price are slim, which leaves me with the alpine.
I’d put a ccdb on it, as everyone seems to rave about that, and then swap everything over from the five.

I just want to know if I’ll regret the alpine as soon as I get to any sort of hill.
Any other recommendations welcome.
Thanks!!

Edit: I cant afford two bikes

Had a 2009 Alpine, sold it and regretted it. Bought another a few years later – a 2013 model, I think. Very happy! If pennies are short I would’t rush for a CCDB. I bought one (tuned for my weight on an Alpine) but took it off in favour of a Fox air can as it feels lighter and more sprightly. I have a Pike up front and Stans wheelset, and it climbs really well. Definitely a keeper for a few years, but the Capra also looks mighty attractive!

Mates got one just like that. Weighs a ton but rips downhill

I have an alpine 160 too. Love it….I bought it to consolidate my collection of sub5 and 222 into one bike. It does everything really well in my opinion. I would suggest that you forget the CCDB. Personally I got a second set of wheels and tyres and a used DHX5 coil shock. It means when I ride DH (like France last year) I put on some DH wheels and tyres with a coil shock. The rest of the time I use it with some Fulcrum Red Metal Zero wheels and the Fox RP23 it came with. It’s not the lightest bike on planet earth but it climbs as well as my non-pro pedal sub5 and is a hoot coming downhill.

Took one on a month long alpine road trip this summer. I really liked the bike, it suited my riding style really well (more skippy than planted) and, although not the lightest bike in the world, it does climb ok. I did the Mega on it and managed to ride up and down everything that wasn’t 2 feet deep in clay sludge.

Mine had a Rock Shox Vivid, which I found to work quite well, no complaints with it at all. Not ideal for going uphill, but fine for sitting and spinning. I did a few looooong climbs in the alps and as long as I could spin, it would go, great traction with the Vivid, so I can only imagine a well set up CCDB would be even better.

I would have kept it, but I need the money for uni. My plan was to fit some lighter clobber on it, including a CCDBAir, but unfortunately it had to go.

However, a word of warning, I did manage to put a big old crack in mine. On the swingarm, under the arch where it attaches to the front triangle. I’m not a heavy rider and I barely break any parts, I can’t remember the last time I bent a wheel, but this was a big old cross shaped crack, looking like it was caused by torsion. I’m not saying they all crack, far from it, just make sure you check if you’re buying used. I guess that’s what happens when cram 4 years worth of riding into a month. My friend has a 5 that’s cracked in exactly the same place.

This isn’t mine, but it was similar:

Okay , thanks for all the help.
Anyone had much experience on them for all day xc stuff?
I’d also be interested to hear more about the rp23 vs. Ccdb.
I thought my rp23 was okay , and then I tried a five with a ccdb air on…..

Keeping tabs on this one, as I too have been eyeing up an Alpine/equivalent to take on some uplift days/Alps trips…

I took mine on a few big days out to the Peak, it was ok, though as I’m so used to pretty much exclusively riding hardtail, it kinda annoyed me with it’s squishyness (I like to hop about). It didn’t feel like too much bike though, particularly going down, and the suspension definitely helped with fatigue. I’d normally be broken after a full day in the Peak on my hardtail, but I felt fine. They do climb well if spinning, just don’t expect to be stood and sprinting up stuff without a lockout switch.

That said, I raced Steel City this year on it and managed to get more or less exactly the same time as I did the previous year on my hardtail. I found that strange.

probably a silly question but is your RP23 recently serviced? Just checking so that you are comparing a decent CCDB with a decent RP23. It makes a big difference.

No experience with the CCDB but my 2011 5 has a lovely back end with the RP23.

Mate I ride with has one, rides all day XC with me – but im on a Covert, so we are pretty equally matched. It does need a set of Talas on the front so the front wheel stops lifting on really steep climbs.

The diff between the RP23 and CCDB is the diff between Air and Spring.

The air will ramp up, the Spring wont. So if your riding it XC I don’t think you NEED a CCDB, but as soon as you start getting air you may find the RP23 at its limits.

Small weight penalty, but its not a light XC bike, so just sit and spin / winch uphill and enjoy the plummet back down.

The Spring does feel different and can be tuned to suit you, the RP has much less tenability – if you like to fiddle go for the CCDB, if you don’t understand high speed com / rebound, stick to the RP23

The Alpine’s a great bike, whichever year you get. 2012/2013 revamp produced a very good all-rounder: long, low and slack yet very agile, and a surprisingly good climber. I’d think twice about the CCDB – it’s a tweaker’s shock, and an RP23 is way simpler to get a good all-round setting, will save you loads of weight/dosh and perform almost as well. Older frames are good too, though I’ve not ridden one myself.

They are really good but… pretty expensive used especially considering the swingarm cracking issues and lack of support for second owners (Orange won’t now sell you any frame parts for a 26 inch Alpine or Five). There’s no shortage of comparable slack, hard use full sussers out there for less really. Which is why I don’t have one, as I like ’em otherwise.

If you think it’s the right bike then it’s worth it, if it’s just one bike that ticks the boxes then it’s worth looking at others.

My rp23 was tuned, and the ccdb was definitely nicer.
North wind, what frame would you recommend for 600ish?

Twiddler or not, there is a difference between Air and Spring.

My RP was also tuned and still out of its depth for my style of riding.

But, if you don’t know why or what the difference is, sure, stick to the RP23. Its fine most of the time.

My rp23 was tuned, and the ccdb was definitely nicer.
North wind, what frame would you recommend for 600ish?

I’ve just built up a 2014 26″ Alpine, only done one ride on it and one FoD uplift day on it but its feels awesome.

It weighs 32.5lbs, but its a large and im about 16 stone fully kitted up. I havent built it to be light. I kept breaking stuff (snapped chain and seat stays etc..) on my 2013 Stump Evo so wanted something bombproof.

peacefulparsnip – Member

North wind, what frame would you recommend for 600ish?

Ooh, I think I’d just recommend look at loads of frames, rather than specifics. Personally I’d be looking at Spicys and Enduros and Megas and there’s a Last Herb AM on Pinkbike just now… MMM. But it’s a pretty big market.

philwarren11 – where did you get that guard/protection from on the frame of your Alpine?

just to add to this…

i have had my alpine for just over 2 years and can confirm its a great frame, iv used it for everything from uplift days to long xc rides and although not the best climber in the world it will get you up anything (im on 1×10)

iv done up to 50 miles in a day on it, over this last weekend in scotland I done 70 trail miles with about 8000ft climbing on on friday & sunday with an uplift day on sat so I think you will be happy if you go the alpine route….

Iv just ordered a banshee rune purely because i want to try a different bike so if your needing a large frame let me know (2011 frame with hope headset/bb and an rp23 kashima shock)

I’ve also had my Alpine for just over 2 years also – it’s been fantastic. It’s fitted with a CCDB Air and originally I had some 170mm Lyrik forks but replaced them 6 months ago for some Pikes. LSC is spot-on, the fork stiffness is still there whilst being a bit lighter too. The bike is a superb allrounder and I really can’t imagine wanting owt else.

It’s been to the Alps twice and the Basque once, it does local XC rides and everything else in between, including getting up the road to the Rowen youth hostel on the Drum Mountain ride. It even climbs better than my Cotic BFe. The only downside for me is it’s weight. This means you’ll never be in first place on the climbs but it certainly keeps itself planted.

The downtube is from Rockguardz and its carbon. Chainstay is a jumbo lizard skin.

Ooh, I think I’d just recommend look at loads of frames, rather than specifics. Personally I’d be looking at Spicys and Enduros and Megas and there’s a Last Herb AM on Pinkbike just now… MMM. But it’s a pretty big market.

Yeah, I already asked him and it’s provisionally sold.
Megas seem like a very sensible choice!

Kendo954, emailed you……twice

The 2011-2013 Alpine uses the 30.9 seatpost, taper head tube and revised welding on the rear swingarm.

If your fitness is top notch then it will do all kinds of trips, XC/DH are not a problem.

My 2013 one is set up for more of Gravity bike as opposed to last years distance bike.

Last year:

At that build (deemax, Revs Race, Triple 1 x 9 X0, CCDB) it weighed in at 16kg.

This spec worked well for me but lacked front travel on uplift days so changed to Lyrik RC2DH set at 160mm. Feels more secure downhill now.

I’m a heavyweight now at nearly 18st without Hydration pack and run a 550 spring on the CCDB, this works perfect for my weight.

2010 Alpine with CCDB. Sublime (I ride with trimix but so do a couple of Alpine owners). Done Howies Enduro on it and all day XC rides, also taken it to Switzerland, Spain, Turkey, India…perfect? No? Brilliant? Yes.

Cracking at the swingarm weld vent hole was a thing with older Alpines, I’d suggest if it hasn’t cracked now it won’t.

The CCDB allowed me to tune out a few issues (‘trapdooring’ on slow rolling stuff cured with SSC). If/when I get another FS it will have a CCDB (always coveted the Ibis Mojo but wouldnt sell the Alpine to get one…).

Anyone with 160mm forks on a Five should be on an Alpine.

and pics incoming ;o)

Cracking at the swingarm weld vent hole was a thing with older Alpines, I’d suggest if it hasn’t cracked now it won’t.

Mine was a 2012 model and didn’t have the vent hole, still cracked 😐

Bought Kendo’s Alpine and got it set up yesterday, I took it out to the local downhill trails today.
Didn’t seem to pedal too badly although the weight was noticeable, nothing too bad though!
The trails are pretty steep and tight most of the time so didn’t notice the change in frame too much in the slower parts, other than a massive improvement in the rear wheel stiffness – it just felt less flexy and sketchy.
When it got to open fast stuff it was an absolute monster though, so much more stable, it could really benefit with something more sophisticated than the RP23 though, so that’s next on the list.

Overall really happy!!!

Very nice……. But then I would say that lol

What you think of the paint in the flesh? She’s bright in direct sunlight 😉

Health to ride & enjoy 🙂