• This topic has 48 replies, 24 voices, and was last updated 6 years ago by alexh.
Viewing 9 posts - 41 through 49 (of 49 total)
  • Alloy mtb frame modification, seat tube and brace trim
  • alexh
    Free Member

    I don’t think you can trim the reverb collar.

    This way I can drop the saddle beyond the ideal pedaling position, for when I’m playing.

    I’ll take it to the local dh trails tomorrow and see how it goes.

    I did have to use a smear of filler to remove some of the angle grinder marks. Also, there was a hole in the tt to fill

    transporter13
    Free Member

    Done this mod a few times over the years.. Doesn’t throw up any issues whatsoever. I’ve got it done on my current bike too.

    Good job op

    alexh
    Free Member

    Cheers!

    DiscJockey
    Free Member

    I was going to recommend cutting down to the level of the brace tube, then cutting a slot at the back and getting a bolt clamp welded on. Anyway, you’ve gone further than that 😉

    Reverbs have a very long outer section/tube, and they’re also very stiff, so you’ll probably be OK. Frames do sometimes fail at the top-tube/seat-tube weld area, but that can be due to leverage caused by long seatposts when there isn’t much inserted into frame. Again, with your Reverb, there’s as much material inside the frame as outside, so it’s not putting much stress on the region of seat-tube near that weld, or at least not bending the seat-tube at that point.

    alexh
    Free Member

    Agreed,I’ve gone a bit lower than the ideal height but I’m up for sacrificing pedalling efficiency for a lower seat, and reducing any potential moment on the seat tube.

    What could be a factor is the reverb is a 30.9 and I have a 100mm Sleve in the seat tube to the correct dia..

    In any case, it’s a cheap winter build from a 29″ ht I could not sell for a good price

    chakaping
    Free Member

    Nice job.

    breadcrumb
    Full Member

    If it was a regular cutting disc you used to chop **** outta carefully modify your frame I’d chuck it in the bin now. They aren’t suppose to be used on aluminium, it may clog and explode!

    Fair play having the balls to get choppy choppy.

    alexh
    Free Member

    Holy crap!

    Thank goodness I didn’t get the wheel wet, as I subsequently used it to cut a couple of steel bolts. I should really know this. Thermite isn’t to be messed with!

    Binning that wheel and maybe I’ll invest in some alloy specific wheels.

    I’d bet a few people suffer badly from this, as it’s not something I’d considered.

    http://www.finishing.com/317/17.shtml

    alexh
    Free Member

    Well, couple of months have passed. It’s still in one piece and it took a rather large drop to flat on Sunday. Rides so much better with the seat lower. I’ve also dropped out the 140 yari and put a 160 pike in (running a bit more sag than normal as ideally I’d prefer it to be a 150).

Viewing 9 posts - 41 through 49 (of 49 total)

The topic ‘Alloy mtb frame modification, seat tube and brace trim’ is closed to new replies.