I’m converting to tubeless!
I’m using Eclipse Tubeless kit, DT 5.1 rims, Bonty XR4 tyres and Stans sealant

I’ve finally managed to seat the tyre onto the rim/tape using a ghetto accumulator. No way do I want to unseat it to pour the sealant in, so I’ve tried to get it in though the valve with the core removed. Problem I’m having is the nozzle on the bottle doesn’t fit into the valve, so quite a bit of the sealant is pouring out over the wheel (onto a conventient rag Ii had the foresight to put in place).
The bottle is showing about 2floz has gone, which should be enough for the tyre. Its sealed some holes, but not all, so I’m not convinced enough sealent has gone in.

What are you techniques for getting the white stuff into the rubber? (sorry, schoolboy humour)

I use the Joe’s sealant bottle – it has a narrow end on it that fits.

Maybe have a look at any old chain lube bottles you have and see if the nozzles on those woudl fit properly?

What size bottle are you using? A smaller bottle with a finer nozzle?

http://www.notubes.com/2-ounce-Tire-Sealant-P154C14.aspx

Haha, that’s the bit that all the instructions conveniently gloss over.

FWIW I had a devil of a job inflating a high-volume Ardent recently and unseated a section of one side to get the jizz in. Blew up fine with track pump after that.

or you can get a pack of empty ones with a fine nozzle from Hobbycraft

Ooh, I’ll be watching this. Just about to do the same, and planning on putting the sealant in through a Stans valve with core removed, using the 2oz Stans bottle…

See if you can get a syringe minus needle from the chemist?

eBay syringes, multitude of uses tinkering with bikes.

Fill with valve at 3 o’clock using a bottle with the right size nozzle or just pop a shall section of the tyre off – it’ll go back much better now it’s been on once.

The Eclipse kit uses double sided tape I think – I found it hard to seal the spokes with it.

Are you holding the wheel horizontally, shaking, rotating and repeating? Then flip to the other side. That should get most of the leaks coated.

After that, pump it up and go for a ride. Riding seems to be the best way to get a good coverage of all holes.

Make sure you get a 20 or 30ml syringe,you’ll be there all day with a 10 or sm
aller

I’ve got the wheel in a jig, with the valve at the bottom, trying to pour it in. Its from a 16oz bottle and with the tip of the nozzle snipped off, its too big to go in the valve.

Plastic syringes may be the way to go. I think I’ve got a spare one….

The Eclipse kit uses double sided tape I think – I found it hard to seal the spokes with it

It uses the double sided tape to hold the rubber rim-tpae in place. I’ve learnt (by my mistakes) to make sure it bonds really, really well, or it slips and the tyre won’t seat…

I use one of these little bottles. The tip fits perfectly inside the valve.

this

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/tyres-tubes/tubeless-kits-parts/tubeless-accessories/no-tubes-the-injector.html

Here’s the way I did it just this morning:

50ml syringe and some rubber hose. The inside diameter of the hose is a snug fit on the valve..

Had fun and games with a 2.5″ Minion EXO but got there in the end..

Another bit of kit to add to the toolbox that cost me nothing 🙂

This…

No Tubes Injector looks useful. I’ll go with the cheaper generic plasitc syringe and a piece of silicon hose. I may even have a valve adaptor I can use on the end…

Is there any negative effect of having too much sealent in the tyre? other than extra weight?

I use a bit of poly tubing (3mm bore IIRC) on the end of the nozzle. It goes in great then, no mess at all.

On the last set I converted to tubeless the tyre was so tight that even when I wedged a tyre lever to unseat a small section it wouldn’t unseat any further. I pushed the nozzle in the gap and squirted the sealant in. By far the easiest tubeless conversion I’ve done. Tyres would pump up without the need to remove valve core and by casually pumping the track pump with one hand.

Wish all tyres and rims were that easy!

unseated a section of one side to get the jizz in. Blew up fine with track pump after that.

Works for me too

According to the 2 pint bottle instructions (Stan’s) you should use:

2/3 scoop* for 1-1.8″ tyres
1-1.5 scoops* fro 1.9-2.0″ tyres
2 scoops* for DH tyres

I’ve got 2.5 and 2.35 tyres and put 80ml in each. Gone up and staying up nicely so far..

* I presume a scoop is a 2oz bottle equivalent.

I treated myself to a Caffelatex syringe which is even better than a pointy ended bottle.

What’s wrong with unseating the tyre and pouring some in?

That way you can actually see how much is left and top up with the correct amount.

yeah, take your pick of above advice for getting liquid through the valve.
does anyone else get that thing of some bubbles blow-back just when you don’t want it?

also, regardless of getting sealant in, if you have some still sloshing around from the initial fill, it may be that the holes need to be sealed by doing more of the wheel twisty/shakey/spinning thing around those areas, rather than adding more sealant. see stans vids for how to do this, including laying wheel horizontal over a bucket etc. I had to slosh around for quite a while near to the valve to get it all to seal on the last set I did. it took a while but did work.
good luck!

Syringe

Edit: YMMV but I bought a valve core removal tool which is useful if you get any latex setting around the valve core – less chance of damaging it than pliers.

holes need to be sealed by doing more of the wheel twisty/shakey/spinning thing around those areas, rather than adding more sealant. see stans vids for how to do this, including laying wheel horizontal over a bucket etc

shake wheel around a bit then put back onto bike and spin wheel – centrifugal force is your friend.

I use a bit of fish tank airline hose, just fits over the valve core and on the tip of the pointy bit they give you with the Stan’s bottle.

25 posts on how to put some sealant in a tyre! 😆

I bought a valve core removal tool which is useful if you get any latex setting around the valve core – less chance of damaging it than pliers.

A nine-speed chain link also works! just the right width to slot over the valve core.