Took me VW T4 Transporter van for it's MOT.
Failed on the rear brakes. Tester said they were out of balance, one working much better than other.

Any ideas?
Wondering if it's just a case of stripping out, cleaning and rebuilding. Or could it be something more complicated?

Both discs are fairly recent, and both look OK.
No signs of any leaks, and Van drives OK haven't noticed anything odd.
I do know that there's a restrictor/limiter/type thingy on the rear brakes so that you don't lock the back up when driving empty. As I do most miles with the van only very lightly loaded I'm wondering if the callipers have partially stuck through lack of use.

TVM
SB

Firstly I don't know about the specifics of VW transporter rear brakes but judging by your description I would suggest it is just a case of stripping, cleaning and rebuilding.

It would also definitely be worth looking at the handbrake mechanism on the rear brakes it may well be this 'hanging up' rather than the footbrake side. Could be a handbrake cable seized up for instance.

Hope that helps

good start would be to give em a bleed if there is bubble hopefully you will be sorted

to strip and clean would not hurt though

ps sold the full sus got a new hard tail

From your thread you say it has discs on the rear,I would check the brake caliper pistons, and Caliper slides are not seized on one side (the bit the caliper moves on)make sure everything is lubed up, but only use a specific caliper brake lube,(rubber grease)sachets available from automotiv suppliers.(not copaslip).

Failing that its a good idea to bleed the brakes "while your in there",remove the fluid resevoir cap first,release the blead nipple,while pushing the pistons into the caliper, and drain off the fluid using a clear pipe so you can see any trapped air.do this on the front as well.

Dont forget to top up the level mark with new brake fluid,and make sure you pump the pedal,and reseat the pads BEFORE you drive the van!

The LAV valve (load apportioning valve) should move and not be seized,follow the brake pipes along to find it,although its unlikly to cause problems with Imbalance, give the pivot a lube up and check the flexi pipes for blebs or damage.

If its failed on the Handbrake side, check the cables for any damage or seizures,plenty of lube in the right places always helps. 😉

my vw t4 failed on the rear brakes last year,it was a rear brake cylinder leaking (drum rears) hope this helps. 😉

Thanks guys.
Guess you know what I'm doing today.

SB
🙂

One other thing I have experienced is (not VW specific), if 'pattern' (non-genuine) pads have been fitted, and they are reasonably worn, is that they can pull to one side.

As above, but I'd stick some fresh genuine pads in whilst you're going to the bother of stripping it out.

UPDATE – stripped the right hand side, as that was the side that was lowest in power. No bleedin wonder they ain't working well! The discs are fine, they're not that old….. yeah, and they ain't getting much older either as the pad hardly touches the disc, and when I took the pad out, the pad fell off the backing!!!

I have some new pads on order.

note to saladdodger – what's your new hardtail?

SB

Good! I hope you fit some decent or original vw pads next time. It's the same with bikes but a bit more imprtant….

check everything is free. Usually the sliders or caliper piston are siezed on rear inbalance.