Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • A few questions before I buy a new wheelset
  • donncha
    Full Member

    Following on from the helpful advice I got on the forum about specc’ing a new bike build I’ve went to back to the drawing board to decide on light weigh trail wheels. I’m currently thinking of some Light Bicycle rims on DT Swiss 240s. I have a few very basic questions before I pull the trigger:

    • 6-bolt or centre lock? It doesn’t seem to make any difference from what I can see?

    • Straight pull or J-bend spokes? Straight pull are marginally lighter and stronger but are harder to find replacements and tension using round spokes (presumably if I get some spares and use bladed spokes this shouldn’t be a problem?)

    • 28h v 32h? I’m 67KG and don’t tend into to plough into things; should I am be able to get away with the 28 spokes on a 30/35mm carbon rim?

    • 30mm internal/35mm external is fat! As I always spend longer going up than coming down this width shouldn’t offer any penalties over a narrower rim?

    donncha
    Full Member

    bump

    DiscJockey
    Free Member

    240s good choice.

    I’ve got centre-lock rotors on some bikes due to DT Swiss and Shimano hubs, and 6-bolt on others due to Hope hubs/rotors. I actually prefer centre-lock, as you can easily remove the rotors for cleaning/maintenance. I don’t like undoing the bolts on 6-bolt hubs; once tight, I prefer to leave them in place. If I didn’t have a liking of Hope hubs, I’d probably go centre-lock all the time. XTR rotors are all you’ll ever need.

    For racing, go straight-pull and aero, i.e. Sapim Race or CX-Ray. Just buy some spare spokes, they hardly cost anything. I didn’t understand your question about ’round spokes’ ?

    At that weight, go 28 hole, you’ll be fine. My Hope ‘race’ wheels are 24 spokes F&R and I weigh 80kg – no probs at all. For some reason though, it’s not easy to find 28H rims these days, I’m not sure why ?

    I don’t think you need rims that wide – a bit pointless in my view. DH racers have been fine with 23 -29mm internal width rims for years, so why would you need wider ? I guess if they’re carbon, you won’t notice the weight difference, but if you get something really wide like 35mm and run 2.2 race tyres on them, it will widen the profile a bit, and possibly make them a smidgin slower. Perhaps you’re wanting to run balloon tyres ?

    donncha
    Full Member

    Thanks DJ – v useful.
    I thought fat was the future! Not looking for balloon tyres but a light weigh all round set of trail wheels.

    njee20
    Free Member

    My take:

    – Centrelock is heavier, and rotor choice more limited, but you do have the advantages of removing rotors as above, if that’s your thing

    – Personally I’d go j-bend every time on the MTB (the SP 240 road hubs are v nice though), SP are harder to build (even bladed is trickier as the spokes will twist) and spokes are harder to come by. Yes you can buy spares to the time of purchase, but with j-bend you can walk into any shop anywhere and get replacements. There is negligible aero impact of using bladed spokes off road, particularly with the degree of flattening on CX-Rays and the like. If they’re building them then go nuts, but I wouldn’t pay the £100 premium to have them if you’re building yourself, just get Revolutions.

    – You’ll be fine on 28h, rims/hubs always used to be harder to find if that’s an issue, but obviously LB and the like are set up to deal with it. Flip side is that you save about 16g per wheel over 32h…

    – Rims are getting wider, I’m not that fussed, not convinced it’s the future either! If you want a lighter set of wheels the narrower rims weigh significantly less. My LB hookless XC rims are 355 and 356g (if you ask LB they’ll choose you a light pair). They’re 27/21mm IIRC, there are options in between.

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    What’s the thinking on spoke count for carbon rims? Seem to remember reading someone on here making a fairly good argument that carbon wheels were actually a bit too stiff with a high spoke count and they actually benefit from a low spoke count (<24h).

    njee20
    Free Member

    Ben Pinnick (off of Bird bikes) endorses fewer spokes and skinnier ones for stiffer wheels. Makes a lot of sense.

    I went 32h, no ill effects, I’d certainly not be put off by 28s.

    donncha
    Full Member

    Wheels are going to work out about £650 (built by LB)
    Plus £170 import taxes
    Plus £80 to upgrade to the 54t ratchet
    is about £900

    Or for £1100 I could get:
    http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/ftb/wheels/roval-mtb-all-mountain/roval-traverse-sl-650b

    proutster
    Free Member

    Not quite sure where you get £170 import taxes from, I paid £37.26 Customs charges on the LB wheels that I bought (built up onto Hope Pro IIs) – that was for an invoice (before shipping and PayPal charges) of $813.

    donncha
    Full Member

    Looking back at the LB thread it suggested 25% import fees plus £15 handling charge?

    proutster
    Free Member

    Ah, just remembered that I “cheated” a bit. LB suggested this:

    We will declare the value at USD90 for a pair wheels and write “sample only” and “bike rims” on the delivery document. Then you do not pay much for the tax. Is it OK for you?

    So I agreed and only paid the £37 odd above.

    njee20
    Free Member

    I don’t know anyone who’s paid that much, £60 or so would do it. They seem to always mark a lower value as standard.

    I’d pay £100 premium to have the LB/240 ones over the Rovals, no way in **** I’d pay £200 more for the Rovals!

    donncha
    Full Member

    Thanks guys.
    Mind’s made up.
    Appreciate the advice.

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