Jesus, Road stuff lasts forever doesn’t it! 8k miles is a decade of riding for me, I can wear chains in 300 miles and cassettes in 600, chainrings about the same.

get yer wallet out 8)

8000 miles is plenty.

.75 wear I’d be chamging the cassette too

Doesn’t look too bad to me.

8000miles is OK but not too brilliant. I usually check chainring wear by putting a new chain on and trying to pull the chain off the chainring at the 3 o’clock position. Any significant gap and it’s tine for a new chainring

my advice also, there comes a point at which changing to a new chain on a very worn chain ring just wont work anymore.

It’ll be shit. Something won’t work perfectly and it’ll be annoying. Big and little chainring will have uneven wear, there’ll be uneven wear across the sprocket. Just change the lot 🙂

It’s not the 6 months that’s killed it, it’s the 8000 miles. If you do lots of miles in anything you’ll wear out more parts. It’s not rocket science.

Never mind the chainring, your cranks are scuffed and so also need replacing! Road bikes should look flawless at all times 😉

Alternatively use the inner ring that actually has teeth left on it rather than just some serrations and spin at a higher cadence 🙂

I didn’t wear my Ultegra ring out after 9.5k miles but that was only 4.5 months. Time vs distance.

Skipping probably on the cassette, I reckon. I don’t think I’ve ever had a big ring slip, and I’ve done a fair bit more than 8,000 miles in the decade I’ve had my road kit.

However it’s really easy to end up with a slipping cassette when you change your chain.

Just getting back into cycling after many a year out of the scene and managed to blag my younger brothers old Kona off him to make a start on. I’m no mechanic however the gears seem setup fine but the chain keeps slipping in certain cogs at the back (9 speed).
Reading through a few posts on here I’m a little confused. Is it best just to replace a chain? Or as its an old bike do both the cassette and chain at the same time and will this for sure fix the problem?
Please remember this bike is maybe 15 years old and I just wanted to get back out, do a few miles to see if I can get my teeth back into it after all this time.
Many thanks
Rick

and look after it meticulously.

…and then posts a picture of one of the skankiest Ultegra chainsets I’ve ever seen.

suck it up buddy, 8,000 miles is a very good distance for a consumable item like that.

I was getting grumpy about having to change the rings on my commuter which I’m going to have to do soon, this thread has made me feel a bit better about it as my non series shimano chainset has done over 14,000 miles on the original rings.

I’ll probably go for a Claris chainset based on the OPs experience, should last forever.

Some of you are talking about the chain skipping on the cassette, and some about it skipping on the chainring. There’s no point advising what to do if it’s not clear which of these 2 scenarios is occuring here….

There’s no rule that says you need to replace cassette or chainring just beacause the chain is at 0.75.

Talking from my experience, if starting off with a new drivetrain, and where the chain is renewed at the 0.75 mark, a cassette will be OK with up to 3 chain renewals, or possibly only 2 if most of the wear is on the smaller sprockets. This ‘rule’ has worked for me for many years/bikes as sprocket and chain material hardness hasn’t changed much. Chainrings, however, do seem to vary in hardness and some wear quicker than others so it’s mainly a question of looking at the tooth profile. A simple check is to try pulling chain away from the chainring at about the 3 o’clock position. If it lifts above the height of the teeth, the chainring needs replacing, regardless of whether you can see shark teeth or not. On MTBs, you tend to get chainsuck before you get issues such as chain jumping across the teeth.

adamr100 – what you do mean by the ‘3/4/5’ sprockets ? How many times have you already replaced the chain ? Did you get all the drivetrain new and fitted at the same time ?