I have a 29 FS and a 650b FS.

The 650b is miles quicker.

Decision made. 8)

I went 29er- initially because 26er was obviously being killed and I figured if I was going to buy a new wheelsize, I wanted to be able to tell the difference. I was pretty narked at the whole 650b fiasco tbh so, definitely biased

But then once I did more test riding, the best and second best bikes I testrode were both 29ers (and the 650b versions of those bikes didn’t measure up at all)

For me, big long travel 29ers are just about perfect. I think the real eureka moment was reriding one of the EWS stages on it, and it wasn’t that it felt easier, or anything like that- it was that I got to the bottom not falling apart, usually I’d be hanging on. So I was faster sure, but safer too, and having more fun, and just generally in better shape.

Couple of weeks into full sus 29er, albeit owned various 29 ht. I much, much prefer my 29er. Little bit of new bike placebo maybe. But it’s so fast, stable and just as chuckable and fun.

The correct answer to this question is always “yes”.

Despite being deeply unfashionable, I miss my 26″ Camber. Should’ve been the worst of both worlds, small(er) diameter wheels, halfway between trail and xc, long too tube and 120mmof travel, but the thing was a rocket ship and perfectly happy with 140mm forks. There’s definitely something about the responsiveness of a sorted 26″er.

These days I’ve a 27.5″ and a 29er, both circa 140mm rear travel and solidly in the trail category. The 29er is awesome, it’ll make minced meat of anything I throw at it, but I find I have to really work at it to throw it around. My 27.5″ bike is playful and feels the fastest, but my 29″er is definitely quicker.

Your best bet is to try before you buy. See if you can test a 27.5″ and 29″ Stumpjumper back to back, likewise Trek seem to be having a trail 29″ resurgence of late.

Whatever you decide, it’s a win for you.

I think it does matter, if you have rocky or otherwise rough trails. I was expecting a small difference with 29 but was blown away by how much better it was on the rocky technical climbs.

When I replace my Patriot 26 it will be with a 650b bike just to be different to my other two 29ers.

If I was looking at second-hand 26″ bikes, I would avoid anything without a tapered headtube. A straight steerer limits fork choice these days, and I have a feeling that tapered is actually better.

And then I’d get a 29er.

It doesn’t really matter at the end of the day. If you want to try to apply some level of science to it then bigger wheels are faster – fact, but they’re less nimble – fact.

While that’s true, it’s not the only factor- not even the most important factor. If you’re buying a big bike, none of them are all that agile- they’re all long and slack now, for good reason. And the 650b bikes tend to be slacker, to balance out the wheels’ reduced stability. So for trail riding use (ie not doing 720 corkscrews) the limiting factor is the rider really.

A 29er being unagile:

I’ve a shed full of 26″ bits, 2 spare frames some forks and all that. Pile of tyres etc. My next bike will be 650 or 29. They tend to last long enough that I’d rather not pick up more 26″ stuff. If your looking new then it seals it.

Basically on wheel size it makes a difference but so does frame design and components. A good bike is a good bike regardless of the wheel size, it’s up to the designer to get something from it.
Forget the this size for that crap it doesn’t hold true anymore, the height thing is interesting but double edged just as Minaar is on about being on a bike that fits finally got a tall mate who is happy to go back to 650b.

get out and try some bikes, it’s the fun bit.

This and all my MTB are 26 ers

Geometry is more important than wheelsize, but if that’s not the deciding factor I’d favour 29in myself.

Bird Aeris. Maybe a little tricky on the budget, but well worth it.

On wheel size though, all three 😀

I’m on a mix of two 26 and one 27.5. Love them all. The 27.5 though is rather nice but it’s 90% about being newest with longer wheel base, slacker angles and carbon agile bike (5010) and 10% wheel size.

Personally, based on that list and lacking the imagination for thinking of anything else, I’d go for the Jeffsy, IF you can put up with the wait – I think they’re July / August builds at the moment depending on size, but you did say 6-8 weeks a week ago so that might suit.
Your top budget only gets you the entry level Al bike, but it’s still a great bike and nothing on it screams to me “only here to get it on budget” like bikes of old.

I’m a serial Cove buyer and fan and those £700 Hustler frames do looking temping, couple one with a £300 SLX drivetrain, a £400 Pike or Yari, a £200 dropper, £200 Superstar wheelset, £80 tyres and tubes (or tubeless) and you’re over budget without bars, grips, stem, headset all the little things you forget about, which could be another £200 with ease and then you’ve got to build it, if you like that, great, if you don’t not so great. Ultimately where does that put you? Well you’ve got a Cove, brilliant, welcome to the club – they are to Canada what Intense are to California, they were doing the long slack thing years before most makers, they’re tough as old boots and whatever the stats say on paper, they’re always fun to ride, but it’s a small club – they’re a total bitch to get rid of when the time comes, maybe you’re in the N+1 camp, never sell bikes, just collect them, or like me if you need to trade up to keep the Mrs happy before you buy new – you’re going to struggle, especially, if sadly it seems Cove is out of the bike making game – they haven’t made a new, new bike in years and they’re still trying to sell off 26” Shockers and G-Spots. You sell a YT by sticking on eBay and it’ll go for a +/- 5% what the one that sold the day before went for and +/- 5% what the one that sells tomorrow goes for – you sell a Cove by putting the ad everywhere, then dropping the price every week for a month, and then writing a stealth ad about why everyone discounts your bike because it’s rare, then your strip it and the bits sell in moments which is annoying then finally you sell the frame to the most random of buyers – I’ve sold 2 – a Shocker and a G-Spot, the Shocker when to live in Cypress, the G-Spot Siberia – for a lot less than almost any other brand of the same spec.

Dare I say it also, there will always be that stigma amongst Cove fans, that Hustler wasn’t made or really designed by Cove.

I know nothing of Cannondale’s but I think Lefties are ugly as bawls and wouldn’t have one.

If you’re getting a HT or a shorter travel full sus, 29 is the way to go, but I can see the logic in a 27.5 for long travel

I went from 26 to 29 (both HT ) and I wouldn’t go back but the sizing and angles are another part of the upgrade satisfaction

A buddy of mine just spent a fortune on a full suss cotic 29er – I’ve been blown away how much quicker he is – On both descents and climbing . . I guess if your into going big – smaller wheels win but for the average rider 29er is king. .

I’ve been riding mtb since before mtb existed and my latest trek 29er is the bestest most fluid off road bike I have ever ridden.

Others could be better, if so they will need to be very good indeed.

Just a thought.. Get a bike/frame that can take different wheel sizes. 27.5+ should take a 29er wheel..

I’m still happy riding around on 26″ wheels.
I’m also happy riding on 29″ wheels, I think it may seem a bit quicker and/or smoother. I noticed it “felt” different to 26″.
I’m happy on 27.5/ 650b wheels, although i really can’t tell the difference from 26″.

Your best bet is not to rush, get a few yltest rides, have a go on friends bikes. And go with what you like the feel of best.