I heard there are known problems with the ecu’s which could be causing the problem. Ford may not acknowledge this but I know 2 people with 2010 Ford Mondeo 2l diesels who have had this problem.

Sounds like it needs remap from dealer

Good luck, I had a VW that did something like this, cutting the engine out (granted not bought new, but dealer not interested) and my Focus that was bought new randomly cuts out all the electrics. Neither garage interested as it would never happen when they were testing it.

The VW was a touch scary as everything went, including the power steering and it used to happen mid corner…. At least the focus still drives, I just have to pull over to reboot it.

Had the exact same problem in my Focus. I’ll try and dig out the paperwork and see what they found the problem to be. Was fixed and been trouble free 6 years.

What does the car do when this happens i.e. does the car go into limp mode/glow plug light come on?

I had a similar thing with my Mondeo and it was the fuel pump, took them ages to diagnose.

Rty putting some premium type fuyel in, shell v power, texaco or bp ultimate etc, warm engine up for a few miles then start of in first accelaerating hard till third, and watch all the crap fly out the back.

Works for me, also the newer bio diesels made from plants are know to produce a mopuld in the fuel tank clogging up the pump and filter along with pipes. http://www.intertek.com/biofuels/biodiesel/fuel-filter-blocking-problems/

Sounds like a fuelling issue to me, but I know nowt 🙂

Consumer rights – at 2 years old and in warranty, I’d guess they’re exactly what you’re getting – full back up from the dealer to rectify the fault.

I hope it’s better than the one you’ve given here – I’m still confused if it’s losing revs on the counter or if the car’s slowing down.

Regardless, just keep going back for more + having a a chat with Ford Customer Care can be very helpful

I wish all customers/drivers could give such a good description of faults!

Given the relatively tight rev range it happens in, I’d be away for a roadtest with the datalogger running (the Ford diagnostic datalogger is one of the best in terms of how accurately it records what you want), specifically monitoring actual and desired fuel pressure, air flow, and boost pressure.

The rev range the problem happens in, is one where quite a few key things are going on.
Boost pressure will most likely be increasing quickly and reaching maximum, so any turbo control or air flow issues are likely to appear.
The fuel injection pressure will also be maxing out to cope with the extra boost pressure, at the same time as the number of injection pulses will also be decreasing so any fuel pressure or injector issues may show up.

It’s a case of getting a good datalog, and analysing it to see what does something it shouldn’t first.
For example, if it’s fuel pressure going high, you’d see the actual pressure increase past the desired, and then if the metering valve got closed further followed by a sudden drop in fuel pressure, which then results ina drop in boost pressure, then it would most likely be the metering valve sticking (although problems in this area are usually most notable with cutting out at idle, or a triggering of the overpressure valve combined with lots of fault codes).
Or if it was a turbo problem such as sticking actuator, you might see it go over pressure, followed by a reduction in the wastegate command, followed by a sudden drop in air pressure, at which point fuel pressure gets reduced because there’s not as much boost pressure.

Regardless, recreating the fault with a datalogger is the biggest problem.

I’d suspect MAF or EGR. Because they are physically there, the ecu doesn’t realise they aren’t working properly and compensates by reducing or increasing fuel and nothing shows on diagnostic things.
I’ve known several VW with MAF issues and had two Vauxhalls where they’ve been replaced. I also know of several VW vans with EGR issues causing poor running at low rpm.

this is one route – i used it with a ford that had an aircon problem that the dealer couldn’t find and i was fed up with the car being at the dealer and not actually being available to me – think i asked them to find me a dealer that could fix the problem properly under warranty or what other solutions they could provide

got a lot of apologies from the dealer and a fix that worked and wasn’t a we’ll just try this until we get it right

^^someone up there said something like you can’t reject a 2 year old car
I’d check that with trading standards or whatever they are called nowadays – they will probably have a standard letter you can use – along with the history of inconvenience to you ….the vehicle is not fit for purpose – a formal rejection might wake the dealer up into asking Ford to do an expensive fix

If your vehicle is under warranty and has shown a problem during test at the garage, then they are not obliged to replace your vehicle unless the vehicle is damaged beyond repair. However they do have to fix it, whatever the cost, under your warranty agreement.

You could try forcing the issue with a threat of trading standards and tell them that the car has been sold unfit for purpose as it had a known fault at time of sale, which the dealer did not reveal to you. It may work, but they have to be given time to find the fault and fix it. You may also be able to claim for alternative transport or hire through your warranty.

EGR are an arse. We have a fleet of fords and they give the same symptoms, without any codes showing. Also, could be an issue with a crank sensor, as diesels have them too, I believe. We have just had a van with an intermittent stall and was traced as a faulty oxygen sensor. Sadly these cars now have a multitude of things it could be, which is not very good when you just want them fixed quickly, even if plug in machines are there to help. I’m still thinking egr, even a new one can be duff, if its been changed.

I had a similar issue with a 2.5 BMW diesel – was the MAF sensor which I don’t think necessarily shows on diagnostics.

MM – You are right that if they cannot fix the fault then they should put you back in the position you were in before the fault happened. You wouldn’t get a new car but one of similar age, miles and condition would be a reasonable expectation.

However they have to have reasonable opportunity to repair the fault which would be more than one go certainly. If this is the second time they’ve had it then I’d keep playing fairly nice for this time and if it still unrepaired be a little more formal, write them a letter to record the issue and what you want etc. The consumer advice line would be worth a call for further advice.