Winter has not been kind to my bike. Looks like I need a new front mech, chain and cassette. I’ve just had a squint at my bank account and I’m tempted to take the 1×11 plunge. Is this a good idea? If so, which 1×11 (cheapest possible, unfortunately, so I’m thinking Deore XT) and has anyone seen any good bargains recently?

My Trek Superfly came with a 1×11. I junked it for 2×10. I’d rather still have a triple up front though.

1×11 junked for not enough range/big jumps between ratios/noisy drivetrain at extremes of the cassette.

1 x 11 is a load of old tosh.

What about the SRAM rival 1×11?

Been running sram gx for 6 months now, not stopped me doing anything. Runs well just need to tweak for cable tension. All the gears I need, running grip shift so I normally would jump 2 or 3 at a time so the gaps don’t bother me. On range I’m down about 2 gears from the 2x it replaced. I’m as quick or faster up, down its about technique and on the road we just chill. Not finding it noisy at the extremes.

I’m a convert. I was worried about losing my lowest gear but with a 42 tooth cassette and 30 tooth chainring I can get up anything I could on my 2×10 set up. Shimano M8000 or SRAM NX would be your cheapest options. If you went for SRAM GX or above you’d need a new freehub body, that’s if your current rear hub is compatible.

This looks a cheap way of doing it:

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/79692/Shimano_XT_M8000_1_x_11_Upgrade_Kit_WINCODEGCP2765?gclid=CMH08r2q3ssCFe4y0woddkMDnw

Then just add narrow wide chainring.

1×11 junked for not enough range/big jumps between ratios/noisy drivetrain at extremes of the cassette.

1 x 11 is a load of old tosh.

You’re doing it wrong.

1×11 is really no better than 1×10 with an expander to be honest. Unless you’re smashing wide fast descents, then the 10t is brilliant.

The chain at extremes isn’t noisy, and haven’t noticed it on GX, X01 or XX1.

I not sure what ratios and gaps between gears some want, but shifting between three front rings to find a *perfect* gear is just odd.

Anyway – OP, if you want to save money think about a few things…

If you go SRAM cassette, you’ll need a new freehub. If you go Shimano, you can use as is. Although XT cassette weighs more than GX, and is still 11t smallest gear. You can mix SRAM GX or NX in there if you like.

So.. The cheapest option would likely be a Shimano XT cassette and SRAM NX gearing.

Or, you could go 1×10 and just pick some deore kit and an expander.

Most can survive perfectly fine on 32x 11-40t, though you can run a 30t if you’re not feeling particularly fit. That gives you pretty much the same range as a triple with a 24t granny and a 11-34t cassette. Just without a bizarre top end.

Cheapest option for you is to get a narrow/wide ring and expander from Superstar (20% off this weekend with code) and a new XT 10sp cassette for about £30, plus new chain of course.

As Rickon said – functionally this is not much different to 11sp XT and actually a bit less “fussy” in setup I think.

But 11sp XT is good too. You can get a narrow/wide ring for your existing crankset to use it, probably.

Sorry, should have mentioned that I currently have a SRAM X9 2×10 rather than shimano. Hasn’t thought about the free hub issue. I reckon I’d be mostly happy with a 1×10 with a maybe about a 30t chainring (currently have 39t the largest). I guess that would be a cheaper option, although I’d still need new cranks, cassette, chain, chain ring and possibly bottom bracket.

If your rear mech and shifter are still good then you can do what I suggested to go 1×10.

I just said XT cassette as they’re the benchmark and it’s easy to swap the expander cog onto them.

Your existing double chainset should take a narrow/wide 30t ring in the big position. That’s how I do it, the 30t rings have built in spacer tabs which makes the chainline good.

You should be able to reuse your current crank, just need some short chainring bolts for the new chainring 🙂

What cranks are they?

All depends on if you’re looking for the absolute cheapest option, or want a new setup.

If you’ve got the chance to drop the front mech, any excuse is a good excuse. It’s just extra faff, a good place for mud to collect, and frankly pointless unless your doing a lot of road or touring these days.

All depends on if you’re looking for the absolute cheapest option, or want a new setup.

I think I want a single speed, but I’m not brave enough to do that to my only mountain bike.

1×10 seems like it’d be cheapest and I think I’d be more than happy with it.

The cranks are whatever comes with an X9 crankset (https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/x9-crankset) with 39-26t (I think… certainly the largest chainring is 39t. I was led to believe by the LBS that if I wanted a single chainring that was smaller than a 39t I’d need new cranks. Is that not correct or have I misunderstood something?

I think I want a single speed, but I’m not brave enough to do that to my only mountain bike.

Why do you want to go SS? Were and what do you normally ride?

Why do you want to go SS? Were and what do you normally ride?

I like the idea of having a lower maintenance bike, plus I’ve knackered enough derailleurs during rides (usually 15 or so miles from anywhere), plus whenever I’ve played on a single speed roadie it’s really fun. I also think it fits stylistically with my steel long travel hardtail

I go for big mountain days (peak district/snowdonia/ West coast of s Scotland) rather than trail centres. Never raced and never intend to race.

As someone who has recently shelled out a stack of cash to fix the carnage of a rear mech firing into to wheel after clipping a rock, surely going 1/11 with those silly big cassettes means really long mechs and inviting trouble???

Is that not correct or have I misunderstood something?

The crank in your link uses 120 BCD. The NW smaller chain rings all use 104 BCD. Wolftooth (there may be others) do a 36T 120 BCD ring that should fit, but can’t imagine you’d get any smaller than that.

For those suggesting 1×10 I would say that using a Sunrace 11-40 or 11-42 casette would probably work out cheaper than using xt plus expander and give a better spread of gears .

Where are you getting your Sunrace cassettes? I’m looking for a CSMS3 11-40. Ta.

I think you can also go 11-42 (10sp) on most of the standard sram 10sp mechs so a lot cheaper than xt as an upgrade and the same range.

never mind the butter – Member
Where are you getting your Sunrace cassettes? I’m looking for a CSMS3 11-40. Ta.

I’ve just got mine from Triton cycles, not used it yet though so can’t comment on performance.

I have just gone with the sunrace 1×10 11-40 mx3 from mtbriders.co.uk eBay store. Weighs 25g more than the 11-36 slx it replaced and no need to replace my 10 speed derailleur, chain, shifter etc.

The usable difference in 1×10 vs 1×11 ratio range at either 11-40 or 11-42 is negligible.

Coupled with a 30t superstar NW ring and it’s all good.

The functional range of 27 or 30 speed was only ever 30-40% of total gears including some crossover before derailleur rub or over stressing the chain line.

What do people think of this plan:

New race face cranks – http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/race-face-chester-crank-arms/rp-prod82881

Superstar chain ring 30t or 32t (tbc)- http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/i-o-chainring-narrow-wide-style.htm

Sunrace cassette 10-40t http://www.bikegoo.co.uk/bike-parts-c8/cassettes-c20/sunrace-mx3-wide-range-cassette-10-speed-p788

New chain tbc.

Bin the old front mech and sell the left hand shifter on ebay.

All in about £180.

Are your cranks definitely the 120bcd?my sram x9 were 104 with the removable spider which makes things a lot easier. I’d go to the 42t it’s worth the range

I think I’ll need to measure the cranks as I’m not sure, but I think they’re 120BCD.

Just found a 11-42t cheaper… so maybe http://www.bikegoo.co.uk/bike-parts-c8/cassettes-c20/sunrace-ms3-wide-range-cassette-11-42t-p900

I’m assuming that this will just fit on my current SRAM equipped rear wheel – is that right?

The same cassette but cheaper:
Here.

Definitely 120 so I’ll bay the crankset. Thanks for the link to the cheaper cassette.

Watch out as one of those is the ms3 not mx3 and it is considerably heavier.

Watch out as one of those is the ms3 not mx3 and it is considerably heavier.

I ride a steel hardtail. I regard “heavier” as “better training”.