Just gone over to 1×10, with a NW 34t ring, and clutch mech. Last nights ride resulted in a few dropped chains.

I’m running a RaceFace bash which i’d like to keep, and my Spesh currently has a bottom roller mounted to the ISCG 05 bolts which can go if neccesary.

I want a quiet version, and also one that wont fall apart in 15 mins.

Whats good?

I’ve got the E13 one on the same setup, bit pricey but good so far

Pauls chain keeper?

Im selling one……

I’m aware I am stating the obvious, but I thought the whole point of NW + clutch mech was so you didn’t need a guide?

Clutch turned on? Chain the right length?

@jamie
yes, that was my thought too.

CLutch on: check.
Long cage SLX mech: check
Chain, 3 links longer than big-to-big: check.

The clutch makes the bike so much quieter, so worth it just for that i think. Chain kept coming of the inside tho’.

Thanks for the recommendations, i’ll check in the E13, and Pauls.

I find the Superstar one fine if you set it up right.

1×10 (36T and 12-36)

My Superstar one died within about 6 rides.

my SSC one has lasted fine

My SSC one has been fine needed to push it out a bit with a V brake spacer though..

SO, ive just looked up the E2 type top guides, as my frame has direct mount for this i think. Pauls do one, but i’m not sure i could run this with a bash guard too?

Are you riding only really really rocky trails or funny suspension design or something?

Not dropped a chain yet on my Heckler with RF NW and Zee clutch, been on DH courses and really rocky manmade fast filling rattlers.

If you don’t want it to fall apart, e.13

e.13 TRS+ Single did the job for me, though it’s top guide with pulley. Being a pulley it’s not entirely silent but wasn’t bad. Doesn’t destroy itself like my old MRP guide did, and it’s neater and easier to clean.

But yes, with the N/W and clutch, you don’t need the guide.

Chain, 3 links longer than big-to-big: check

Isn’t that too long?

big-big plus 3 links? thought it was big-big plus 2?

Paul’s for neatness if you’re using a seatube mount, Gamut Trail-SXC for ISCG05 mount, lighter & cheaper than the E13.

If you keep the bash you’ll need something like the Hope one. Otherwise you could swap the bash for a guide with a taco, like an MRP XCG.

clutch mech but no NW ring so I use an E13 XCX on mine … lasted well
so far ( about 6 months now …)

I run a top guide I wouldn’t buy SS mine hasn’t lasted well and when it dies I will be looking elsewhere.

EDIT I would drop the roller you wont really need it just a quality lightweight top guide

Nope, woods riding only (seeing as the first and only ride was last night)
ON an Enduro evo.

I’ll try a couple of links less, see if that helps.

I thought it was big-big plus 2 links but have found the best way to get the chain length right on my setup was to route the chain through the mech, shift to the 36t on the cassette and then let air out of rear shock and move rear wheel through the travel and find the point where the chain is at it’s tightest then remove enough links so the rear mech is extended but not over stretched.

I’m also running a zee with the stubby cage so chain length is pretty critical I’ve found.

I didn’t think you needed a long cage with a double chain ring let alone a single one?

I’ve done some pretty rough rides with my Works N/W and medium SLX+ mech, no chain drops.

Something doesn’t sound right. On a FS I unbolt the shock and put the chain round big/big and through the rear mech to the shortest I can get it. Generally meaning the mech is pulled right up towards the chain stay.

EDIT- long cage is more for 3x isn’t it.

Ive just added the blackspire top guide to the e type/s3 mounts on my banshee spitfire which I have been running with a raceface narrow/wide and z rear mech for the last 6 months. The clutch mech and n/w ring are great but definatly not 100% foolproof .I was losing my chain on roots etc once every couple of rides and just decided enough was enough the top guide wieghs less than 50gms anyway. Havent lost the chain since I fitted it

If it’s falling off inside is the chainline slightly out? Friend of mine fitted some offset chainring bolts to his Orange to overcome this problem and hasn’t suffered since.

@isitafox

Yep, could be that really. I’m using my old 3×9 cranks (9-speed too) so i might budge the chainline over a bit towards the inside.

I think that to fit an ISCG05 device i’ll need to anyway.

I’ll see if that helps.
Thanks.

Cant recommend this enough

http://www.widgit.com.au

Ive run a 32 on a 1 x 10 for 18 months without a clutch mech and Ive never dropped a chain.

Clean and simple too!

I use a hope finger chainguide with my bash ring.
http://www.hopetech.com/products/drivetrain/chain-guides/

Your chain might be a little too long (but then again, if you are on a FS this might be required to account for chainstay growth during shock travel). Running a long cage on a single ring set-up is less than ideal as well. Short or medium cage is best IME. If its a Shimano clutch, then might also be worth checking how the clutch is set, as they are user serviceable (you can increase/decrease the clutch tension).

Silly question – but you have got the chainring on the inside of the spider (where the middle ring would sit), not the outside? If so, and its still dropping off the inside, you could always swap the BB spacer over to the non-driveside, which in effect moves the chainline inboard.

It sounds a set-up issue though, so worth playing around and making sure everything is set-up right. It kinda defeats the point of running clutch mechs and NW chainrings, to still run a bash and a chainguide (unless of course you are smashing fast, uber-tech trails)

I definitely need a bash guard, as i’m often riding over logs, roots etc:

I’m going to have a look at set-up, as i have a Zee short cage mech i could use instead. I will also move the chainline over a bit to see if it improves.

@chip… thanks, i hadn’t seen that one. Looks like a possible.

I think i might try using an E13 TRS+, and spacing over the bash guard to make room for this to work. The bash can move over quite a bit on my SLX cranks using some spacers.

That hope looks nice and neat, that and the gamut at £36 seem more reasonably priced than most chain devices but do they still not seem to have a hell of a mark up?

I shall once again suggest skoolshoe’s chainkeeper for the budget concious 🙂

Surely a shorter cage will produce more slack than a longer one? You use a shorter cage with single ring setups because it’s lower profile and you can generally get away with it, not because it’s actually better in a chain handling sense (if it was we wouldn’t need anything longer than a short cage to begin with). Am I wrong?

Tried MRP 1x direct mount. Shit. Also got a cheap Truvativ/MRP XO guide. Shit.Lasted two rides.

To sum up, MRP is shit.

Not convinced personally about N/W so i run a Straitline Silentguide which is awesome.

That hope one looks similar tho.

One of Hope’s is your best bet to use with a bashguard. Otherwise get a cheap top guide from any company and modify it to fit with your bash (tak off the outer plate). Otherwise an MRP AMG which is a top guide and taco bash, or modify a G2, G3, LG1+, etc to remove the lower roller.

As above, go for a shorter cage mech and loose some more links.

If your chainline is far outboard then space it in or try one of the new Blackspire guides, they are very are good. I think the Hope is more of a chain catcher and will probably get chewed up if your chainline is way over. Obviously better for the lifespan of your chain too if you can bring it in a bit.

Blackspire have an ISCG 05 top guide, maybe a bit overpriced though, or the “trail 1X”(?) with beavertail bash guard. Although neither will work with a crank mounted bash.

3 years plus on an E-13 XCX here, has taken a beating and is still perfect.

Have seen lots of Superstar ones snapping and falling apart.