So i’m running 3×10 with a clutch rear and would like to go 1×10.

Do I need a thick n thin chain ring?
And do I need shorter bolts or any spacers lining up the rings?

A thick/thin or narrow/wide chain ring is a good start. You’ll more than likely need shorter bolts depending on your cranks. Merlin were kind enough to give me some FOC (although they were mech hanger bolts) when I bought my Raceface ring of them. You may need to move / add spacers on the bottom bracket if you have them to get a suitable chainline.

You can pick up single ring bolts from eBay cheap enough, I recently got some black ones for about £6 posted.

I still run one spacer on my drive side BB and have had no issues with my chainline, although removing it wouldn’t do any harm.

Narrow wide ring & clutch mech is the future in my opinion, although I’ve heard of people running normal rings with no problem, but I’d recommend a NW for more security.

How do I go about sorting a chainline?

Limited options really, remove a BB spacer on the drive side if you have too many?

Run a single specific crank, although if you run the single ring where you middle is you shouldn’t have too many issues tbh.

I wouldn’t worry. Just stick your chosen 32 tooth ring in the middle ring slot and job done. It’s far simpler than you might be thinking. Might need a top guide if you go for a plain chainring, but it’s not rocket surgery.

I ran a 1 x 10 with the normal ring whilst waiting for my n/w ring to arrive. Had it with a clutch mech and didn’t drop the chain once. Depending in what rings you have now it might give you an idea of what size n/w to go for. I had a 28/40 chainset so ended up going with a 30t n/w.
Also be interested in how you go about setting chain line..

For the cost of a N/W ring – just get one and save the faff.

You will need smaller bolts.

Plenty of choice for rings now, RF, Blackspire, E13, Works Components

I went for a Works one, its cheapest and made in the uk and I am a bit of a batty about stuff like that 😉

I moved from 1×9 to 1×10 and have done nothing to improve my chain line, no need.

I do however run a single specific crank but I believe the only difference is there’s no granny ring tabs.

As Rickos said, simple conversion so I wouldn’t put too much emphasis on the chainline, NW & and clutch is all you need for simple, client running gears!!

Would 36T be a bit big for Peak district area?

Unless you have legs like Chris Hoy I’d say yes!

32 or 34 is best for Peaks.

I run a 32 and ride there all the time absolutely fine.

What cassette are you planning on running? If you’re going to run a 11/36 you could get away with a 36 upfront but I think the most common set up is 11/36 with a 32 or 34 up front.

I’ll buy a 34T and buy shorter bolts tomorrow.

Good shout 🙂

Better follow the fashion

Oh it is a 36/11 on the back

Yep, easier on the legs uphill!!

CRC are doing SLX for £27 or XT for £37, bargain!!

Just use your middle ring and get some shorter chainring bolts and a chain device. I ran my canyon nerve like that for about a year with no issues whatsoever.

Although for the price of the e13 xcx device I had, you could probably get a thick/thin ring?