Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)
  • 1×10 chainring size
  • wobbliscott
    Free Member

    Just de-cluttered my bike by ditching the larger chainring and associated gear stuff. This leaves me with just the smaller of the two chinrings and a bash guard i’ve fitted. I feel like a bit of a wuss cause most of the people who run 1×10 seem to be running a 32T chainring, but mine at the moment is a 24T – I might move upto a 28T soon ish, but to be honest a 24T chainring feels about right as its quite hilly round here in Derbyshire – short but steep climbs, alot of them rocky and quite technical so you need the ratio to be on the low side to get that quick spurt to get over a big rock or step. Not sure I could push a 32T up some of the hills and climbs round here.

    For those running 1×10 with 32T chainrings, are you mostly running it for downhill bikes or cross-country/All-Mountain duties? If the former then I wont feel such a weakling. If the latter then I will, unless you’re in areas that are not so hilly!

    njee20
    Free Member

    36t on an XC bike for me. Run what you’re happy with, fairly irrelevant what everyone else rides. Personally I’d find a 24t (or even a 28t) woefully undergeared particularly when riding to the trails, but if it works for you!

    Mackem
    Full Member

    Been running 32t but after today going up a very long hill I’m gonna go for a 30t. I did it, just, but be nice to have a spinny easy gear.

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    RobHilton
    Free Member

    32t for 1×9 on an all-round bike here (that really isn’t designed for climbing) and only fail to climb where lower gears wouldn’t be much help. Do ride a fair bit of singlespeed though, so am used to having to exert myself on climbs and being in the “wrong” gear.

    ratherbeintobago
    Full Member

    Looking to switch to 1×10 here, and planning to go from a 44-32-22 triple and 11-32 cassette to a 34 chainring & 11-36. I reckon I’ll lose about two gears off the top and two off the bottom.

    Do trail/XC riding on the notoriously flat plains of E Lancs.

    Andy

    kayak23
    Full Member

    Depends on what you have out back.
    1×9 here, 32t-11-36

    adventurer85
    Free Member

    For Lake District riding I had a 34 ring up front with 36t cassette on nukeproof mega but dropped it to 32up front without noticing any loss in the high gears. Its hard work on the long climbs but you get used to it. Always a compromise but I’m loving it at the moment.

    jam-bo
    Full Member

    33t with 11-36 here. Average ride is 1000ft/10miles of climbing.

    With a 24t you must be freewheeling anything past a slight slope or be able to spin like crazy.

    Pridds
    Full Member

    IN the Lakes as well about to go from 2×10 22-38 and 11-36 to 1×10 30 and 11-40

    orangeboy
    Free Member

    32 ring for me , not hilly bit not flat
    I do a lot of Tarmac miles to link the trails together
    So don’t want to be to slow on the road
    But it’s what works for you that matters

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Use what you want. But, I wouldn’t do 1×10 with such a small ring, just because of the lack of high gears- sometimes I wish my 32 was bigger (though, not on a long climb)

    robgclarkson
    Free Member

    32T here (and 1×11 :oops:)… i just wouldn’t be able o manage at 23T 1×10

    boxfish
    Free Member

    32/34 with 11-36 cassette seems to climb all but the steepest for me

    andyrm
    Free Member

    I run a 34 with an 11-36 cassette – the only time I run out of gears is on the very steepest climbs, where you’re faster walking anyway 🙂

    brakes
    Free Member

    34-34 is my smallest gear. Mostly ride singletrack and Surrey climbs that aren’t too steep, but even on big long climbs in Wales/ Peaks/ Yorks I manage.
    Depends what your riding style is though – I’m a masher with breaking knees and cadence <60. Plus i have to ride 15 miles on the roads to and from the station.

    wobbliscott
    Free Member

    The 24T up front is just about OK for the flat – I can maintain half decent pace in gear 8 or 9, but it does get very spinney quickly on the flat descents even with 11-36 on the rear, which is why i’ll probably go 28T soon. I don’t think it will be a huge loss on the lower gears. My commuter is single speed so can spin my legs if I want to, but since i’m not cross-country I don’t really mind slowing down and conserving energy for the next climb and off-road downhill – they are gruelers round here. On the off-road down hills I don’t find I pedal too much anyway, just use gravity and pump!

    Thanks for feedback though – nice to know what other people are upto. Loving the simplicity of losing all the gubbins up front though and will be nicer in the mud where the front mech gets clogged up pretty quickly.

    svalgis
    Free Member

    I’m weak, and a spinner, and I appreciate the lowest gear that a 28t chainring gives me. With FS I do start to run out of gears on the trail though so I’ll try 32t again now. Can’t see me ever wanting/needing anything lower than 28t though, and at that point finding chainrings with the proper chainline and chainguides goes from being a faff to being impossible AFAIK.

    Also, it’s quite amazing what you can do with a bigger gear if the alternative is to walk.

    rob-jackson
    Free Member

    Peak- 33 with 11/36

    ratherbeintobago
    Full Member

    If anyone’s interested, the maths suggest the difference between 26″ & 29″ wheels works out at about 3 teeth on the chainring.

    Simon
    Full Member

    I’m in West Yorks and using 32t chainring with 11/36 cassette. Works well for me on my hard tail, can still get up everything I could with a granny ring and only spin out on tarmac descents but I avoid them anyway!
    Debating whether to go 1×10 on the full suss too….

    groundskeeperwilly
    Free Member

    I run a 28t front ring. If you are fairly happy with the 24 stick with it. I’ve never had anyone running 32/33/34/36 front chain rings outrun me down a trail but a few have been envious on the way up…

Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)

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