What is the suggested chain line measurement for single and double ring set-ups please?

And does this change depending whether it’s 9, 10 or 11 at the back? Or does the dish in the rear wheel compensate for 11speed?

Also, with a double, which ring is the measurement taken from? Would it be something like outside face of the inner? Or mid-point between the two chainrings?

Thank you 🙂

Try this: Sheldon Brown on Chainline

I have already thanks shortcut, although I came away confused and thought that the STW community would be able to clarify matters for me, given the general love for all things 1x and 2x for whatever reasons this love exists for.

Is a road double dimension of 43.5mm be the same required by an mtb double? Perhaps, perhaps not. Looking at there being up to 5mm difference between road and mtb triples, although presumably actual is less as the measurement is taken from difference faces of the inner ring, had me wondering.

He recommends, for example, for a mtb single speed to set up at 52mm. Is this the correct dim for a 1x 9, 10 or 11 speed set up? That’s quite a noticeable difference from 43.5.

What chainline’s have you single and double riders set your transmission up with?

Thanks

You will find that roadbikes and mountain bikes run with different dropouts on the back. Typically MTB’s are 5mm wider. Bottom brackets are different too.

Most folk don’t actually worry about their measurements. Just what actually works and with the flexibility in modern 10 speed chains you will find that with say a Shimano crank a 1 x system will work fine in the middle of a triple or on the outer of a modern MTB double and you won’t need to adjust with spacers.

If you want to run a double do it from the inner and middle of a triple or indeed the middle and outer or use a dedicated double set. I have run most of these combinations over the last few years without issue.

You shouldn’t get too many issues either way and it isn’t worth getting too scientific about.

Thanks for explaining. Sounds like its not too much trial and error to work out for a given bike and set up.