Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)
  • 18" stays = awesome climber?
  • transapp
    Free Member

    Reading the latest mbr, in the SRAM article, the writer claims that a 26″ wheeled bike with 18″ stays would climb better than a conventional 26″er. Sounds like bollocks to me, I thought shorter stays made a more agile climber. Longer stays / increased wheelbase makes better descenders
    Am I right?

    Klunk
    Free Member

    depends if you like a front end that pops wheelies/wanders easily and like moving your weight around.

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    Shorter stays = wheelie-tastic!

    Too long = Wheelspin-tastic!

    But look at hill-climb motorcycles……

    🙂

    mrmo
    Free Member

    i know the traditional thinking is that the shorter the stays the better the bike climbs. Go back to the days of curved seat tubes on Gary Fishers and the like for the most extreme examples.

    I am sure that road bikes would have longer stays if long was better, but they don’t.

    big_scot_nanny
    Full Member

    years ago I had a GF Montare with ludicrously short chainstays, and it was a brilliant climber, really felt the rear traction and bite. I reckon that statement is bollox. (non-expert opinion of a marine biologist warning!).

    Kev

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    longer stays put more of your weight foreward which keeps the front end down, whic would improve climbing.

    They also have the same effect as slackening the head angle or longer top tubes (increaced wheelbase) which makes the bikes more stable at higher speed.

    The trend is usualy towards shorter stays as at normal speeds they’re more manouverable, Pro DH’ers (with exceptions) often have custom swingarms/dropouts to lengthen them.

    D0NK
    Full Member

    years ago I had a GF Montare with ludicrously short chainstays, and it was a brilliant climber

    and great for popping wheelies too. Depends on the climb, riding style etc. Normal climbs short stays, silly steep climbs slightly longer will probly be better I reckon.

    mrmo
    Free Member

    longer stays put more of your weight foreward which keeps the front end down, whic would improve climbing.

    which also has the effect of unweighting the back wheel making it more likely to spin on loose surfaces, meaning it climbs worse.

    All about compromise, what do you want to ride and how do you ride, there are very few bad bikes anymore, just more or less suitable bikes for a rider and their expectations.

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    years ago I had a GF Montare with ludicrously short chainstays

    Years ago, bikes had shorter top tubes, longer stems, and people climbed standing up with bar ends to keep their weight in the right place and the front end (Of their shorter wheelbase bikes) down.

    These days we have suspension, and we sit and grind our way to the top, using gears waaaaaay lower then we used to have to keep moving.

    Therefore silly short chainstays are no longer required. We’ve found the happy middle ground. 🙂

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    more likely to spin on loose surfaces, meaning it climbs worse.

    No. Meaning it grips worse, not clims worse as such….. 🙂

    mrmo
    Free Member

    These days we have suspension, and we sit and grind our way to the top, using gears waaaaaay lower then we used to have to keep moving.

    Do we? some may do others don’t, i have been using the same gear range for over a decade and climbing the same basic way with or without suspension, whatever gets the bike to the top of the hill quickly. if it means in saddle or out do what needs to be done.

    Any excuse for not bothering to get fitter.

    mrmo
    Free Member

    No. Meaning it grips worse, not clims worse as such…..

    ok, grips worse, which means wasted energy.

    Some ride to go downhill, some ride to go up hill.

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    Do we? some may do others don’t

    In general yes.

    I started with a 28/28 bottom gear in 1990. Now I have a lower ratio in my middle ring than that! (32/34)

    Even on a HT, it’s easier now to climb sitting and spinning than standing and honking. On my 456 I only stand up on climbs to give my bum a rest and to stretch my legs, 95% of the time. On my 1993 Kona SS, I have to stand up more, because I don’t have low gears to use.

    Yes, you’re correct in what you say, but in general terms riding styles and bikes have changed. I can climb stuff sitting down on a FS bike that I wouldn’t have even looked at 20 years ago! They just grind and grip their way to the top! 🙂

    EDIT

    As an example, I can recall bikes being sold with short chainstay length as a feature! (Alpinestars!) You rarely see it mentioned now. When was the last time someone on STW asked for a bike with short stays? They don’t, not that I can ever recall in my years on here, anyway.
    They ask for a specific TT length or head angle, for instance

    avdave2
    Full Member

    My 86 Rockhopper had 18″ stays and was a pretty comfortable ride considering it only had 1.5 tyres. It seemed to go uphill pretty well.

    Stoner
    Free Member

    or ride SS and dont give a XXXX 😉

    When the back starts slipping move your body weight backwards <<<<

    Rubber_Buccaneer
    Full Member

    As has been said, it’s all a compromise between traction (maximum weight on the back wheel) and keeping the front down. For tricky loose climbs I suggest average length stays, average seat angle & the nose of the saddle just nudging your sphincter. Adjust insertion of saddle to fine tune traction/weighting the front.

    HTH 🙂

    BTW, those hillclimb motorcycles are taking on stuff way steeper than anyone is going to cycle up/

    ahwiles
    Free Member

    obviously, there’s a compromise.

    personally, most of the difficult climbs near me are difficult because i either fall off the back of the bike*, or i can’t keep control of the front wheel.

    when it comes to climbing, i’d happily trade a little grip for a bit more weight over the front wheel.

    a steep seat tube angle is a different way to achieve the same thing.

    my 2006 enduro was a nightmare (short chainstays, slack seat-tube-angle), my blue pig is brilliant (average chainstays, steep seat-tube-angle).

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Long stays are better for climbing steep stuff IME within reason.

    Road bikes are irrelevant.

    ampthill
    Full Member

    I think its partly related to height

    If you read Brants justification of the 456 having longer seat stays he mentions it.

    Basically tall people end up sitting closer to the rear wheel than shorter people. This is only slightly offset by the longer top tube This means the taller folk, like me are often fighting to keep the front wheel down, even sat on the nore of the saddle. Longer seat stays help with this (as will saddle further forward)

    This is one reason that my Fs will climb much steeper stuff than my old hard tail. Its a fuel ex. The FSR I demoed was a disaster. Putting the seat up sticks your ass over the rear wheel, even more wheelie tastic than my old hard tail.

    The first Mountain bike I road was 28×28 bottom gear (26 inch gear)

    The first MTB I owned was 28×30 bottom gear (24.3 inch)

    I now have 22×34 on mt FS (17 inch)

    Thats quite a big change!

    adeward
    Free Member

    I think about climbing like this,, you have the bike weight plus the rider weight ,, lets call this 100%
    you can split this 100% up depending on the bike geometry and rider position i think just sitting on the bike you may have 70/30 with 70 at the rear (ish)
    if you had 100% on the front you would have no traction on the rear,
    so the ultimate climbing traction would be when the front wheel is just lifted so you have 100% on the rear wheel

    i am in the camp of short chainstays ,, my current 29er is 417mm about 16 3/8 but this is mainly to get it short and nimble

    adeward
    Free Member

    so as you cant have more than 100% on the rear wheel changing the geometry cannot give you more than 100% but it may give you a different level of control over the bike when climbing near the limit,

    but i would rather have a bike that i can lift the front when needed and is good on single track( opens a whole new can of worms)

    loum
    Free Member

    I agree with ade ward. I’ve had 2 adjustable chainstay bikes and find they climb (and handle) better with the chainstays pulled in shorter. I think grip is key for climbing so I guess we should really be asking which tyres? 😉

    adeward
    Free Member

    and what pressure ?

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