Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 55 total)
  • 1600g 29er wheelset recommendations
  • breninbeener
    Full Member

    I have a short travel 29er that is wearing its standard wheel set of Formula 15mm/135x12mm + Mavic XM319 rims.

    Im using 2.2 Conti trail kings. I have a 650b bike running Hope Enduro wheelset, which although 2000g feels a lot more sprightly.

    The 650b bike is long travel so gets to play on steeper downhill days.

    Im after a useable set of wheels for my 29er that will be ok for my local trail centres of llandegla, Marin, Penmachno. Im 80kg. I have been looking at American Classic All Mountain 29s, but open to the idea of a custom build.

    rickon
    Free Member

    Hope Pro2 on Light Bicycle carbon rims. Sorted 😀

    Northwind
    Full Member

    I’d go Lightbicycle on DT240 myself- can’t see the point of putting nice rims on cheap hubs and if you do the buy-used-wheels-throw-or-sell-the-rest thing it’s pretty cost effective.

    Fresh Goods Friday 696: The Middling Edition

    Fresh Goods Friday 696: The Middlin...
    Latest Singletrack Videos
    rickon
    Free Member

    Oi! NW…. They’re very good value for money excellent hub, not cheap hubs.

    Scandalous!

    Northwind
    Full Member

    They’re alright value in a wheelset, good adaptability, mediocre reliability, not all that light… Mine are alright, I just wouldn’t put them in a higher end wheelset like that.

    The DTs are ridiculously expensive new, mind, but a good used proposition.

    yourguitarhero
    Free Member

    Changing tyres and going tubeless can drop around 300g per wheel

    Sam
    Full Member

    I have 3 sets of DT hubs and numerous Hopes. I prefer the Hopes due to serviceability. Unless you are going for uber race 190 ceramics I don’t see any advatge in DT over Hope.

    tomaso
    Free Member

    If you can grab some high end DT wheels they can come in at 1600g or less. Plenty come up sad as people clamour for Chinese carbon…

    njee20
    Free Member

    I have 3 sets of DT hubs and numerous Hopes. I prefer the Hopes due to serviceability. Unless you are going for uber race 190 ceramics I don’t see any advatge in DT over Hope.

    240s are a chunk lighter than Hopes, the 190s are daft. DTs are just as serviceable, admittedly you need a special tool for the centre bearing, but that’s it, and it rarely wears out. I’ve changed two in 10+ years of owning 240s.

    breninbeener
    Full Member

    DT Swiss 350 hubs are £150 for a pair from bike-discount.

    I have converted my current wheelset to tubeless, so i will check out the prices of LB carbon

    sa9000
    Free Member

    Ibis 928 less than 1600grms and DT rear hub.

    chakaping
    Free Member

    Do you really want a 1600g pair of 29er wheels?

    I wouldn’t go lighter than 1750g (in alu) as a rough rule of thumb. Even then I prefer a bit more burliness.

    njee20
    Free Member

    Really? I’d ride trail centres on my 1370g 29er wheels, just as I did on the 1240g 26″ ones that preceded them…

    Even for a bike of the OP’s ilk I’d be happy with something c1600g, particularly if that’s with light hubs. Obviously XC rims and heavy hubs may be less sensible…

    chakaping
    Free Member

    Are they carbon?

    shortcut
    Full Member

    Another vote for Light Bicycle rims on Hope.

    breninbeener
    Full Member

    I have a burly 160mm bike for heavier duties. I am not dead set on a pr that must be 1600g but it seemed a sensible weight given the role of that bike and the mass of its fairly careful rider.

    If im miles off track then im happy to be advised. All advice greatfully received

    petersnell
    Free Member

    Just bought a pair of am all mountain wheels for my own gyro, think they’re about 1750g quoted weight. Can feel the difference between the standard wheels mavic 319 hope hubs. Go up tubeless easy as well.

    tomlevell
    Full Member

    29er Based on Shimano XT hubs no QR no tape no valve

    Stans Crest and DT rev spokes are race only for me at 1599g

    Stans Arch and DT Comp spokes are my usual wheels at 1897g

    The front Crest has done 10 months as general useage wheel with no problems. The rear died rapidly.
    They were extremely flattering though.
    The current heavier wheels are far more sensible and increased fitness makes them feel the same (and the 1kg tyre on the front). Hopefully the difference will be still there come the first race when I put the lighter ones back on.

    I’d like to try a set of 1400g wheels. What’s the spec on those njee?

    njee20
    Free Member

    Are they carbon?

    The 29er ones are, the 26″ ones weren’t. Why?

    Thing is that arbitrary weights are just that, you can’t necessarily draw a direct correlation between weight and strength.

    chakaping
    Free Member

    The 29er ones are, the 26″ ones weren’t. Why?

    ‘Cos I specifically said I was talking about 29er wheels in aluminium.

    GregMay
    Free Member

    AC Wide Lightnings – excellent wheels, great wide rim, sub 1.600g. Done.

    bigjim
    Full Member

    WTB KOM rims are good, seem pretty strong and light. I went for those for my 29er rather than LB carbon, having previously bought LB rims for my 26er. Not totally convinced by the quality of LB rims, or carbon as a rim material in general, but could possibly be tempted again.

    jonnyrockymountain
    Full Member

    Ditto for the AM classic wide lightening (although mine are 650b)

    Sam
    Full Member

    240s are a chunk lighter than Hopes

    Really? IIRC it was less than 50g in the rear last I checked. Replacing that drive side bearing on DT’s is a bitch, heating a hub shell to change a bearing is not something I’m generally happy about…

    Tom, you can have light, strnog and stiff, but it’ll cost you….

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    I go hope pro2s with my lb rims because they’re light enough, cheap enough, are easily adaptable, are home serviceable without specialist tools and the spares are relatively cheap and available pretty much everywhere. I appreciate they’re not Gucci hubs, but they’re well above the norm in terms of quality. It’s easy to forget that as we sit atop the nipple of niche on the breast of sub group on the body of a minority sport.

    In one of my previous jobs as an lbs mechanic, I saw just as many 240s in as hopes, but hopes don’t have any proprietary parts in them. 27 quid for Pawls and springs? No thanks, and there’s really barely any difference in weight between them.

    It’s also my experience that lighter riders don’t really have much of an appreciation for how much extra deflection can be made on components by a pie Lord giving it some. I’d not want a 1600g set of 29er wheels unless they were extremely high end and made of the best possible materials. Even then I’d be dubious. 1600g in a 29 wheel is what? Roughly equivalent to crests? My 26 in crests had to be trued every fortnight. I gave up on them after a year, but even then I couldn’t sell them because they had too many flat spots.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Scienceofficer – Member

    In one of my previous jobs as an lbs mechanic, I saw just as many 240s in as hopes, but hopes don’t have any proprietary parts in them. 27 quid for Pawls and springs?

    Interesting post… Hope are full of proprietary parts, including the pawls and springs 😕 The 2 hubs are basically identical in that respect. And while the Hope springs are cheap they’re also fragile, I’ve been through several sets (including breaking 3 new springs in a week in the alps) Hope to their credit sent me out a wee bag of them when I moaned, though ironically the cabletie bits I bodged into the hubs lasted longer than the proper springs.

    Meanwhile DT240s have no pawls at all. So either you’re confusing them with a different hub or you mean the ratchet ring set, but that should never need replacing unless you lose a bit or you damage them by using thick grease

    The main difference is bearing life, the DTs are just much better sealed, I get on average probably 3 times the life from a bearing in my 240s than in my Pro 2s (using identical bearings). And yep the central one is a pain in the arse to change but it needs done very rarely because it’s very well protected.

    bentudder
    Full Member

    Also bear in mind that rotating weight is the important bit in all of this (assuming you notice the difference) – and that the further you get from the axle, the more significant it is. You can save rotating weight by going for skinnier or more expensive rims, tyres or tubeless set-ups than you currently have – but all will come with penalties.

    Don’t sweat saving 50 grams per hub if you can save half of that at the rim by ditching a rubber tubeless strip and going for yellow tape – something that will cost a few pounds instead of a few hundred. The same goes for tyres.

    Me? I’m running two pairs of 29er wheels that come in at about 1900gms a pair with tape and tubeless valves. Hubs are all Pro 2 Evos, aside from a Trek FCC front hub; I’ve had good luck with Hope hubs, and have been able to service every one I’ve owned. You can also swap out pretty much every type of axle standard, too, which is good if you should ever need to have a spare set, or if you change frames and need different axles.

    They’re nice and stiff for (relatively) cheap aluminium rims. I’ve found from experience that a light set of wheels can also mean an easily deflected set of wheels – and I’m about 5kg lighter that yow. Having a set of wheels that’s stiff is more important than having one that’s light and floppy (or springy).

    Yetiman
    Free Member

    Another vote for Light Bicycle. My 32H 35mm wide 29er LB rims are on Pro2 Evo hubs (DT Comp spokes) and they weigh 1700g with rim tape and valves. The 27mm wide rims are around 55g lighter so you could drop below 1600g easily enough, and going down to 28 spokes would save a bit more weight, as would lighter hubs.

    chakaping
    Free Member

    Having a set of wheels that’s stiff is more important than having one that’s light and floppy (or springy).

    This is just what I was thinking.

    Having just got a properly stiff set of 29er wheels (2kg), I’m convinced the stiffness returns a bit of the speed that I might theoretically lose due to the weight.

    I won’t be going back anyway!

    IA
    Full Member

    American Classic MTBs here, on target for the weight and have been putting up with my 90kg and little attention needed for over 3 yrs now.

    That’s on my hardtail though, which doesn’t get ploughed into stuff as much as a full sus. However in general, I’m not light on wheels.

    TBH I thought they were so light I’d kill them and replace the rims with something burlier, but they’ve been excellent.

    Flows on pro2 on the big bike.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Do you really want a 1600g pair of 29er wheels?

    I wouldn’t go lighter than 1750g (in alu) as a rough rule of thumb. Even then I prefer a bit more burliness.

    I’ve got some 1800g 29er wheels with ArchEX rims on A2Z hubs, crests would be <1600g so it’s not even that light a weight. I’m happy with crest’s for 99% of riding and I’m 100kg in my birthday suit!

    Only downside is the reliability of the rear hub is suspect, apaprently the freehub teeth wear out in the hub body as the axle isn’t the siffest, but at the price they are it’s barely more money than a new freehub or bearing kit from some brands.

    The LB rims aren’t much lighter, but they are apparenlty stiffer so ~1600g wheels should be more than stiff enough.

    njee20
    Free Member

    I’d like to try a set of 1400g wheels. What’s the spec on those njee?

    They’re LB hookless XC 29er rims, American Classic hubs and Revolution spokes, with alu nips. Been good!

    240s are a chunk lighter than Hopes

    Really? IIRC it was less than 50g in the rear last I checked. Replacing that drive side bearing on DT’s is a bitch, heating a hub shell to change a bearing is not something I’m generally happy about…[/quote]

    Meh, 50g is >10%, that’s quite a bit, but a “chunk” is subjective. One 240 needed a heatgun, having been owned by someone who’d done a huge number of miles over 10 years, it’s not ideal, but I’ve done a lot of 240s, and once had to use a slightly inappropriate tool to sort them out.

    Tom, you can have light, strnog and stiff, but it’ll cost you..

    Reynolds Topo Ts aren’t light as far as tubs go!

    adsh
    Free Member

    It’s easy to forget that as we sit atop the nipple of niche on the breast of sub group on the body of a minority sport.

    by a pie Lord giving it some

    Brilliant!

    FWIW I destroyed a set of rear DT240S bearings in approx. 4 (very) wet 4hr races. Everyone says this is an anomaly but if so it was an expensive one.

    breninbeener
    Full Member

    I have taken onboard the wisdom of needing stiff fit-for-purpose wheelsets.

    The set i have seems to cope well with what im currently doing with them.

    In the conspicuous absence of anyone wanting to lend ma a 1600g wheelset to play with, i have ordered some lighter tyes. I appeciate that i may be altering the grip/rolling resistance balance, but the move from Conti Trail King 2.2 wired to Schwalbe Nobby Nic evo folders should drop me about 4-500g of ‘rim’ mass, so it may feel good enough to clarify the issue for me.

    Sadly the new tyes have delayed any new wheelset by £46, but it may be a long term gain.

    Bigmantrials
    Full Member

    I have been looking into ligther 29er wheelsets, the Velocity Blunt SS rim looks interesting, 30mm external, 26.6mm internal and 425g weight which I think is pretty similar to the LB carbon rims, I am unsure what they would be like in the long run but at £66 per rim they are much cheaper than the carbon alternatives, just match them up with your choice of hubs. When my current wheels die I think this is the route I will go down.

    njee20
    Free Member

    I have been looking into ligther 29er wheelsets, the Velocity Blunt SS rim looks interesting, 30mm external, 26.6mm internal and 425g weight which I think is pretty similar to the LB carbon rims

    Assume you’re still talking lighter in the context of burly rims? The LB XC rims are claimed 365g, mine were 355/356g (I asked for light ones), but only 22mm internal. The 24mm internal is 390g, the 30mm internal is 420g.

    Bigmantrials
    Full Member

    Yes, I am talking in the realms of burlier rims, I think LB quote around 415g for their 30/35mm external AM rims.

    rhayter
    Full Member

    I weigh 15 stone + and my 32-hole Arch EX on American Classic mountain hubs have stayed true for a year and half (built by Just Riding Along). They weigh 1624g per pair with valves and rim tape.

    Sam
    Full Member

    Reynolds Topo Ts aren’t light as far as tubs go!

    Maybe not, but MV32ULs are. With the 190 hubs and CXRays iirc they were about 1200 for the pair. I wouldn’t use rims that width with mtb tubs again though.

    bigjim
    Full Member

    with these dt240s can you swap the end caps twixt qr and x12 as easily as you can with hopes?

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 55 total)

The topic ‘1600g 29er wheelset recommendations’ is closed to new replies.