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  • 148 wide rear Hubs, Are Hope using spacers or a pukka wider hub
  • roverpig
    Full Member

    Could Hope “just” make end caps, a 3mm disc spacer and a new freehub body to convert a Pro 2 Evo rear to Boost ?

    Posted 8 years ago
    Gunz
    Free Member

    I’ve been saving up a rather large (to me anyway) sum of money for a whole new bike and there’s no way the bike industry is going to see a penny of it for another couple of years.

    Posted 8 years ago
    martinxyz
    Free Member

    I was of the understanding that it was only the front hubs that Hope were planning to do a conversion for but could be wrong

    I was asking about hubs and that passed through my head on the phone and I asked about them but nothing was in the pipeline. Probably around 3 months ago so I take it things have changed.

    Posted 8 years ago
    martinxyz
    Free Member

    The adaptor will be easy to make. 12 holes.. 6 threaded holes. Might make one next week! Oh, I don’t need it as my hugo52’s fit fine in my 142 27.5 rear end as it is without worrying about something.. I don’t need to worry about in the first place.

    Posted 8 years ago
    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Here please

    Posted 8 years ago
    martinxyz
    Free Member

    Ur FraMe is n Brigadoon,Scotrootz.

    Posted 8 years ago
    martinxyz
    Free Member

    Haha, You post a pic of it as I mock it being lost in make-believe land. So when will it be rolling?

    Posted 8 years ago
    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Long time. Still waiting on a collection of other bits coming together.

    Posted 8 years ago
    andyl
    Free Member

    Surely a new, wider freehub with inboard cassette spacers, wider axle and then either an offset brake mount (like cannondales) or a disc spacer would work. You wouldnt get the wide flange benefit but everything else would match up and no redishing. (disc spacer best idea in case someone tries to fit a proper boost hub).

    This winter I am learning to build wheels. I have a set of 29er LB rims and will be getting some new 650b rims as the labour is a large part of the build cost and I would like to be able to rebuild a wheel.

    Posted 8 years ago
    STATO
    Free Member

    Surely a new, wider freehub with inboard cassette spacers, wider axle and then either an offset brake mount (like cannondales) or a disc spacer would work. You wouldnt get the wide flange benefit but everything else would match up and no redishing. (disc spacer best idea in case someone tries to fit a proper boost hub).

    Wider freehub is frankly a daft way to do it. Just space hub to drive side and re-dish, its not hard and cheaper than a new freehub.

    Posted 8 years ago
    roverpig
    Full Member

    Wider freehub is frankly a daft way to do it. Just space hub to drive side and re-dish, its not hard and cheaper than a new freehub.

    I’ve got a wheel truing stand, a dishing tool and have built a few wheels, but I’d still prefer some end caps and a new freehub body to the hassle of re-dishing the back wheel. But then I’m frankly daft 🙂

    Posted 8 years ago
    STATO
    Free Member

    Youd rather pay £60 for a freehub, £20 for 2 new +3mm endcaps, and then also a disc adaptor? Opposed to 1 +6mm endcap and disc adaptor.

    Posted 8 years ago
    roverpig
    Full Member

    If it meant I didn’t have to waste time re-dishing my wheel then yes. But I value my time at a lot more than £60. Each to their own though.

    Posted 8 years ago
    STATO
    Free Member

    Just buy another hub then, or pay £15 and get a shop to do it ;0)

    Of course all this talk assumes your also going to splash out on a boost chainset. If you are going to persevere with a standard chainset a +3mm spacer each side, disc spacer, and tweak of the mech will work fine.

    Posted 8 years ago
    brant
    Free Member

    Of course all this talk assumes your also going to splash out on a boost chainset. If you are going to persevere with a standard chainset a +3mm spacer each side, disc spacer, and tweak of the mech will work fine.

    So long as the frame has clearance 3mm futher in.

    Posted 8 years ago
    yorkycsl
    Free Member

    STATO

    So is it a case of 2x 3mm spacers & a spacer behind the disc or 1 x 6mm spacer on the none drive side & a 6mm spacer behind the disc? all easily made but confused dot com as to exactly what the set up is, I’ll get the new frame in the stand & install the crank, rear wheel and cassette & put the chain in the middle of the cassette & check the alignment & go from there, but I think in time all manner of adaptors will be available hopefully, though manufacturers will of course continue to try & relieve us of hard earned cash.

    Posted 8 years ago
    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Either, but the latter will need the wheel to be dished 3mm or it won’t be centered in the frame.

    Posted 8 years ago
    thedude
    Free Member

    Have any of you managed to make it work?

    Posted 8 years ago
    juan
    Free Member

    There is a lot of confused eople here.
    The whole point of going 148/12 (as boost is trademark by Trek) is to increase the stifness of the wheel by widening the flange distance thus having nothing to do with the 27.5 29+.
    You can easily build a 27.5+ rim on a 135/5mm hub. Or a classical rim on a 148/12mm hub.
    The difference between classical hubs and ‘boost’ is in the hub shell. This later is wider ( a bit like a 10/12mm hub) and the free hub is the same (basically the rotor kit ref 3188s from DT Swiss for XD will work for both the 1422/12mm hub and the 148/12mm hub) and so is the flange to disc mount distance.
    Having end caps and spacers will just be a big bodge and as someone said it is best to sell your rear wheel (fro some reason front ‘boost’ isn’t as widely spread as the rear) to finance a new rear hub.
    If I can (meaning I can find an easy way to post a pic here) i will post on the technical drawing between classical hubs and ‘boost’.

    HTH

    Posted 8 years ago
    swanny853
    Full Member

    I think most people on here probably get that fine. Yes, there are bodges being discussed. It’s trying to make a potentially nice older set of wheels work with a nice new boost frame. No, you won’t get the benefits of boost but you will be able to keep using those nice wheels and not have to change everything at once.

    And boost should help with plus tyres because it moves the whole chainline out 3mm, opening up room for the chainstay to fit betwixt tyre and chainring without that estay solution trek has had to do.

    HTH

    Posted 8 years ago
    singlespeedstu
    Full Member

    You can easily build a 27.5+ rim on a 135/5mm hub.

    You can indeed but if you put a 3″ tyre on it the chain will rub the tyre when you get up to the 42T on the rear.
    Which isn’t what it was designed specificaly for but it’ll help people trying to run + sized tyres.

    Posted 8 years ago
    cokie
    Full Member

    Is there any more development on this? I’m rather curious.

    Posted 8 years ago
    mashiehood
    Free Member

    Apologies for the thread resurrection – Steve from Taurus mtb made a machined slip
    On end cap for the ND side which slipped over my existing end cap on the extralite hub, combined with a 6mm spacer on rotor and it’s worked a treat.

    Posted 7 years ago
Viewing 23 posts - 41 through 63 (of 63 total)
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