1*11 chainring size

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This topic has 16 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 6 years ago by madhouse.

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1*11 chainring size
mullabc
Free Member

I’m excitedly awaiting delivery of my Scott scale. It comes equipped with a 34T chainring and a 10-42T cassette.
Although I shall be doing mostly XC and hear a 34T chainring is good for this I will be riding around some country lanes now and then and think having a 36T or 38T maybe better otherwise I’ll be constantly using the small cogs on the cassette? Anyone have any experience of this?

Posted 6 years ago

njee20
Free Member

Wheelsize?

On my 29er I’ve done road rides with a 32t ring, I’d not go bigger.

Posted 6 years ago

joebristol
Full Member

I’m on a 27.5″ enduro bike and I’ve got a 30t chainring with a 10-42 cassette. Not run out gears at the higher end yet although I mostly do trail centres so little road use. Would have thought a 34t would be plenty at the top end.

If it isn’t you need a road bike as you’re riding on the road too much

Posted 6 years ago

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nixie
Full Member

You might struggle to get more than a 34t on and still maintain a decent chain line (i.e. the ring will foul the frame if to far in board).

Posted 6 years ago

oikeith
Full Member

My 29er came with a 28 on the front and a 10-42 on the rear.

I did buy both a 30 and 32 to swap onto the bike, but found on fireroads and roads I can spin the gear out and still hit 30mph. I find it more energy efficient to assume an aero position instead of keeping pedalling.

Posted 6 years ago

richmtb
Full Member

on a 29er 28 or 30t are generally fine with a 10-42 cassette.

32 or 34 should be plenty for 650B. Gives you a 30mph top speed at a cadence of 110

Posted 6 years ago

mccraque
Full Member

I run a 32 on a 27.5+ 11×42 and 32 again with 10/42 on the Stumpy.

I can just about get up most things in South Downs, Surrey Hills and North Wales.

I did have a 28 on the stumpy originally but felt way too inefficient on the climbs and I ran out of gears on anything flat.

Posted 6 years ago

fifeandy
Free Member

I’m excitedly awaiting delivery of my Scott scale. It comes equipped with a 34T chainring and a 10-42T cassette.
Although I shall be doing mostly XC and hear a 34T chainring is good for this I will be riding around some country lanes now and then and think having a 36T or 38T maybe better otherwise I’ll be constantly using the small cogs on the cassette? Anyone have any experience of this?

Obviously going to depend on how fit you are, how long (time wise) your rides are, what intensity you are riding at, and how steep your local hills are.

Bear in mind that most pro XC riders were only running 36T (think Kulhavy was on 38T) for 1×11.
I’d have thought for most people sticking with the 34 if you live in a flat area or do a lot of road miles, otherwise a 30 or 32T may make more sense.

Posted 6 years ago

whitestone
Free Member

On my 29er I’m using either a 32T or occasionally a 30T. You’d have to be either very strong or live somewhere very flat to use a 34T for any length of time. I’ve a 28T (direct mount) on the fat bike which feels about right.

Most of my riding is Dales, Lakes, Scotland so not particularly flat. The 32T has been on for at least the last 18 months during which I’ve done quite a few long ITTs so multiple 12-18hr days with a loaded bike. Not been a problem really. Cassette is 11-40T BTW.

Posted 6 years ago

rossburton
Free Member

Ride it and see? If you find yourself never using the lowest gear but spinning out in the highest, then get a bigger ring. I suspect you’ll be fine and my worry with a 34t is that the climbs around here would be too hard! (my 29er is 30t with 10-42, 26er 32t with 11-42)

Posted 6 years ago

snotrag
Full Member

34 is very big IMO.

I run gx with 28t ring, 10-42 cassette and 27.5″ wheels. Even this is still sufficient to ride a 130mm trail bike on the road as fast as you’d ever need to go really.

I promise you, running out of gears going up a big slog of a climb is a lot more soul destroying for than not being able to go more than 25mph downhill on tarmac.

Also note as mentioned above, the “final drive” is dependent on wheel size too.

Posted 6 years ago

otsdr
Free Member

I find 32/10-42 to be a good compromise on a 29er – I can climb most of the stuff, save for very long, steep climbs and I don’t spin out on descents.

Posted 6 years ago

rone
Full Member

Depends on lots of things.

I’m generally happy on a 36 or 34. That reflects our terrain. 34 you can be on your limit in the Peak.

I reckon a 32T oval is a good compromise.

Posted 6 years ago

deadkenny
Free Member

Many factors and personal preference, style of riding and fitness come into it also.

My 2p, I run a 34t on 26″ bikes and 32t on 27.5. Feels roughly the same in the same gears. Different types of bikes, geometry and weights and all are about the right range and gearing for what I use them for. I don’t feel I’m missing a gear riding them.

Got friends who struggle on the same stuff with those sizes and have gone a size smaller, or gone for dinner plate sized rear cogs. Some who ride the same as me no problem. Others who are more into speed on flat and are on 34t on 29ers.

Posted 6 years ago

hanchurch
Free Member

32 with 10×42 on the back works well for me from everything from canal paths to Dalby.

Posted 6 years ago

Kryton57
Full Member

I’ve run 34 x 42-11 on all my races, marathons this year, no issues.

Posted 6 years ago

madhouse
Full Member

I’ve a 29er and run a 34T up front and 42-11 out back, manage just fine on the local trails and don’t get dropped by my 2×11 mates. I think a 36 would make a few of the climbs a lot harder.

Posted 6 years ago