- This topic has 19 replies, 11 voices, and was last updated 14 years ago by tinsy.
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11-28 x 32…. does this make any sense?
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yunkiFree MemberPosted 14 years ago
excuse my terrible
lazinessnumber blindness.. but does this configuration make sense for a 1×9 set up?TandemJeremyFree MemberPosted 14 years agotoo narrow for me with too high a bottom gear but its all about preference.
thomthumbFree MemberPosted 14 years agoime you need a 1:1 as lowest ratio – but it would depend on the bike/ terrain use etc.
yunkiFree MemberPosted 14 years agohmmm
It is a go abso-flipping-lutely anywhere at a comfortable pace all day long unless I feel like razzing it type of bike..
At the moment with 36 up front and 11-28 I'm struggling on the flat and on the very steep ascents..
low gear = hardest?
and errr… 1:1 ratio = ? in this situation
radoggairFree MemberPosted 14 years agoyes it makes sense, but like all 1 x 9 set up's i dont understand why ( like ss) you would limit yourself to those gears. using my 22, 32, 44 rings i still feel i use my 44 the most of any ring. a 32 x 11 would make me spin out all the time
yunkiFree MemberPosted 14 years agohmmm… maybe a 34 then..?
I just want to limit the amount of faff and fuss and gear changes and stretchy cables and clunky noises really but haven't got the thighs for singlespeed..
I only rarely drop into 22 in emergencies and always feel like a bit of a loser when I do..TandemJeremyFree MemberPosted 14 years agoI would use a 11-34 cassette – lowest gear is easiest gear.
andrewhFree MemberPosted 14 years agoCan't see why it wouldn't work. I have 12-27 on race bike, with 24-32-44 but rarely need to get of the middle ring, just use the big for fire-road blasts. Only used the 24 on three climbs last year, seriouly considering a double set-up.
If you are just riding around, go for it. If racing you may miss the big gear and a larger ring would be better (but then you'll need a larger sprocket for climbing) 36 and 11-34 seems popular.langyFree MemberPosted 14 years ago1:1 = 32:32 or 28:28, depending on what you change.
Like TJ said, pretty narrow range there on the back. If you're "struggling" on the flat, you need a bigger front ring. If you're struggling uphill, you need a bigger cog on the back.
I run 28/38 up front, 11-32 out back on a 2×9. 38:11 means I'm not catching roadies on the tarmac on the way to the trail, but not spinning out either. 28:32 is for that steep, long drag at the end of a 6 hour ride.
Personally, I think 36:11-34 would be pretty good if going 1×9, but up to you, where you ride etc
yunkiFree MemberPosted 14 years agouh oh.. now I'm properly confused.. I thought I would be making my high gear a bit lower and my low gear a bit lower with the smaller front ring!?
I'm going to go to bed and get a book from the library on gear ratios in the morning.. THAT will be a page turner!
thanks though folks… (I think)
TandemJeremyFree MemberPosted 14 years agoYunki – you would be making both top and bottom gear lower with a smaller chainring. 11/28 x 32 however is quite a norrow spread of gears and top is quite low still without a low bottom gear – so climbing hills will still be hard work but your feet will be spinning round madly on the flat. Try using the 11/34 cassette instead – with either the 32 or the 36 chain ring. That gives you a lower bottom gear for hllclimbing but still a reasonable gear for the flat.
thesurfbusFree MemberPosted 14 years agoI ride 32 x 11/34 on my 26er and 32 x 12/36 on my 29er, which has worked perfect for me over the last 18 months.
Only once or twice have I come across an ascent thats a bit steep for the gearing but you learn to get out the saddle and attack them. The top end has always been fine, maybe on the road I spin out a bit, but I can still keep up with my mates.
And you will save approx 1lb in weight.tinsyFree MemberPosted 14 years agoI just happen to have a very low milage deore cassette 11-34 I would love to swap for a similar milage 11-28..
I will be running a std triple setup though to get the most out of a close ratio cassette like 11-28..
Onto your question, if you match the number of teeth on the front ring to the largest gear on the back, ie a 34t front ring and an 11-34 cassette when your in your lowest gear climbing it will be 34-34 0r 1:1 would also be the same gear as buying the 29'r cassette that is 12-36 I think and your current 36t front ring, and so you will have cured the climbing part of your problem, but you will still spin out on the flat.. you just cant get a bigger spread over the 9 gears than that.
Maybe 1×9 isnt for you and you really need 2×9.
freeganbikefascistFree MemberPosted 14 years agothe question is; are you making use of 36:11 (the hardest, fastest gear) on your current set-up?
if you're not using it (especially if you're not using the next up either very much) then you can go to 32:11-28 and you will, as you say make all your gears a little lower (slower, easier)
if you are using 36:11 in your current riding then I would go with what TandemJeremy said. leave the 36 on and change the cassette to 11-34. this will leave your top (fastest, hardest) gear the same but give you a lower gear than 32:28
Your lowest gear options (lower number = lower gear);
36:28 (your current setup) – 33.4"
32:28 – 30"
36:34 – 27.5"so sensible option is change the cassette fo a wider spread and keep the 36. if you still have problems on climbs, change the chainring down
thesurfbusFree MemberPosted 14 years agoIf you are feeling rich, you could get one of these
it would give a big spread of gears.
miketuallyFree MemberPosted 14 years agoIf you find the 36 on the front a bit hard, then dropping to a 32 would make it quite a bit easier.
yunkiFree MemberPosted 14 years agothanks people..
I'm not using 36:11 or the next one.. which is why I got to thinking that I could just about get away with changing only the chainring..I realise that the really sensible and most useful option would be the complete cassette and chainring change.. but I have spent rather alot on the old bike this last quarter.. and I think El Binty would rather boot my sorry arse into the gutter than see me spend any more..
So I'm trying to be stealthy.. and grabbing a ss specific chainring is gonna be the most cost effective way forward for me at this time..
In reality I will hold on to my present 2×9 setup until it needs replacing or I have plenty big dollar to fritter.. but I'm just trying to get a handle on the situation just in case I find a spare few quid for that 32 tooth salsa/renthal..
which leads me on to my next question..
freeganbikefascistFree MemberPosted 14 years agoI'm not using 36:11 or the next one
then yeah, change to 32T chainring in the first instance. If that still doesn't get you low enough you can change the cassette later to a 11-34 when you have some beans
tinsyFree MemberPosted 14 years agoI have another potential swap for you… a 32t middle ring for your 36t?
Mine is very good low milage condition and its Shimano 4 bolt one (hone)
I got 2 bike you see 1 running 2×9 with a 22-32 front and 11-34 rear.. Would like to go to 22-36 on that..
or my XC race bike is 3×9 with a 11-34 but I would love to try a close ratio cassette on it..
So I have a lightly used 11-34 cassette and a lightly used 32t middle ring I am willing to swap for your 11-28 cassette and 36t front ring as long as they are not knackered..
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