Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)
  • 1 x 9 or even 10 set ups help please
  • vondally
    Free Member

    Hello looking at a 1x 9 set up for North West England riding, been recommended as a training idea, I assume in my numptyness i need nothing more than
    1 x cassette
    rear derailluer
    Chain
    1 x chain ring
    Crank arms.

    Do i need a chain guide?
    What is the best chain ring size?
    Any advantage with 10 speed over 9?
    Anyone running 1 x 9 for racing?

    Thanks

    takisawa2
    Full Member

    10s gets you an 11-36 cassette unless you go for that old 9s Deore 29er one that weighed as much as a coal barge, coupled with a 32t up front you’ll get up pretty much anything. Spinning out on the flat might be an issue, but wasn’t for me. You’ll need a chain device, unless your only riding smooth trails. Superstarcomponents XCR works well.

    NWAlpsJeyerakaBoz
    Free Member

    Unramped/singlespeed chainrings help a lot to keep chain on with the teeth been taller. I use that set up with a bash and N Gear jump stop and have never dropped a chain.

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    Do i need a chain guide?

    Probably. You can either run a bash (BBG are tidy and good value) and a N-gear jumpstop, or a chainguide (Superstar are fine, and cheap)

    What is the best chain ring size?

    32 or 34. You can get away with a 36 if you run the 11-36 cassette, or are strong, but with a 11-34 you’d be better off with a 32/34.

    Any advantage with 10 speed over 9?
    One more gear… the 10spd 11-36 is much lighter, as said.

    Anyone running 1 x 9 for racing?
    Not me but I run 1×9 on both my trail bikes (32t and 11-34, 9spd, Superstar guide, on both) and, for me, it’s ideal. On longer, tougher rides I sometimes miss a bail out gear but it’s a rare occurence. The simplicity and robustness outweighs any shortcomings.

    I run a Renthal SR4 ring on one bike, which is lovely, and an old middleburn on t’other. FSA do a very cheap DH ring down to 34t (see CRC) which is a bargain and well made.

    mboy
    Free Member

    Do i need a chain guide?

    It’s always best… Unless you particularly enjoy stopping every few hundred yards to put your chain back on. Also, buy a quality one, they may look ridiculously overpriced but you’ll be thankful when it “just works” which in my experience, the cheap ones don’t do…

    What is the best chain ring size?

    Personal Preference totally. I’d suggest anywhere between a 32 and a 36 depending on where you ride, or how strong you are. Any lower and you’d be better off running 2 chainrings, any higher and you need to learn to spin!

    Any advantage with 10 speed over 9?

    Yes, quite a bit. an 11-36 setup gives equally spaced ratios as on an 11-32 9 speed setup, but with the extra lower gear, it affords you a useful amount of extra gear range. About an extra 40% gear spread iirc, 1×10 gives you almost the same ratios overall (in terms of spread) as a 2×9 setup does!

    Anyone running 1 x 9 for racing?

    Loads of people use a single ring setup for racing now, it’s very popular amongst amateurs and pro’s alike for XC racing now.

    garage-dweller
    Full Member

    You also need SHORTER CHAINRING BOLTS or a bashguard. I went for short bolts, which my local shop didnt stock so needed to mail order (charlie the bike monger) and also bought single specific ring.

    I’m just building a 1×8 full susser and hoping 32 x 32 is low enough. If not I will be pushing.

    Trying a £30 m part guide but fit not looking brilliant at the moment.

    lucien
    Full Member

    I ran a 1X9 (36/34) for one of the Gorrick Enduro’s and thought I was going to die, legs on fire, seeing stars – the whole 9 yards. On relfection, I loved the simplicity, but didn’t have a big enough range of gears, and wondered why my lower back ached for 10 days afterwards…

    kingkongsfinger
    Free Member

    Converted my training bike yesterday to 1 x 9 from 2 x 9. Superb, all you need is a new chainring, shorter chainring bolts and a chain device. Kept the old chain (as its shagged and a new one may not run on the old cassette and not even altered the length.

    Gave it a good test up the steepest climb round here and the quickest downhill, its perfect.

    Cost a total of £ 55 ish, its so quite now and looks cool.
    No issues with gearing if you have a bit of fitness.

    bm0p700f
    Free Member

    Given I ran a 1×9 setup for a while before single speeding the bike without a guide or tesnioner and not loosing the chain once you do not always need a guide. I rode the bike up at Thetford on the single track there so no rocks or freeriding there. Other places and riding styles may necessitate the need for a guide but it is not always essential. I also ran the 1×9 setup with the existing 9 speed ring. Give how easy it is to break a chain and fit a guide and fit a new chain ring I would set up you 1×10 set up take it for a test ride if it comes off head home and fit these two bits when the arrive in the post. No need to spend more than you have to is there.

    mysterymove
    Free Member

    1×9 & 36tooth = hero! 😉

    vondally
    Free Member

    cheers off to play

    garage-dweller
    Full Member

    1×9 & 36tooth = hero!

    Or lives/rides in East Anglia? 😛

    kingkongsfinger
    Free Member

    Or train’s more and harder than most on here and actually races 😉

    southcount
    Free Member

    My shop sells these:
    http://www.comcycle-usa.com/Derailleurs-and-Shifters/Front-Derailleurs-10092/7398040-Origin8-Torqlite-UL/ProductInfo.aspx

    It’s a slightly more affordable option that I think people overlook.

    It also comes in a seat tube mount option.

    Enter code: 348376 for 20% off through March 31.

    southcount
    Free Member

    10% **

    edoverheels
    Free Member

    Top guide is fine for trail riding and xc but if you start messing about you will need a bottom guide as well unless you try the Shimano Clutch system which I have not yet because they don’t do a short cage version.
    See how you get on with a cheap top guide first because decent top and bottom guides are stupidly expensive for what they are.

    njee20
    Free Member

    Changed to 1×10 last year and love it! Went 36t with 11-36 cassette, if I was trying a different ring size I’d go for a 38, find it a little undergeared on the road, but fine off road.

    Only places I found it a bit of a grind this year were Margam, Dalby and Mayhem towards the end of the race in each case, never had to walk, just would have used an easier gear if I’d had one. For casual riding it’s been fine everywhere I’ve been. Like the simplicity, saves weight, saves money, chain wears less!

    I use a Superstar guide like the above, with a bodged seat tube mount as I’ve got a press-fit BB and they didn’t do a proper seat tube mounted one when I bought mine.

    scott_mcavennie2
    Free Member

    Straitline silent guide. Never drops the chain, and guess what? It’s silent…

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    I went 1×9 last autumn and love it – so simple and it’s made me a better rider, both in pedalling and technique terms. Bash ring, N-gear jump stop, medium cage mech and shortened chain. 32t 11-34. About to offload this transmission to my spare (aka wife’s) bike and 1×10 my Soul. I ride it pretty hard and off reasonably sized drops and have never dropped the chain so maybe that’s less of an issue on a hardtail?

    Njee, what cadence are you comfortable maintaining when racing and what do you spin up to when sprinting? I have the strength to haul 32-34 up pretty much anything but too much excess mass to go higher geared!

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