Viewing 35 posts - 1 through 35 (of 35 total)
  • 1 x 9 or 1 x 10 – Buying all from scratch, would you go 9spd or 10spd
  • Jackass123456789
    Free Member

    So going from SS to a 1 x 9 or 1 x 10 setup and can’t make my mind up which to do.

    I have used a super short Shimano road rear mech on a similar setup on my DH bike so thinking of doing the same as I had good setup with it.

    However I was told by a friend that the new 10spd Shimano MTB stuff isn’t compatible with the road stuff, is this true??

    So I started looking at a SRAM road mech and a 10spd shifter.

    Then another friend recommended spending more money on the shifter than the mech as you’ll more likely get better shifting on a higher spec shifter than a lower spec one but not so much of a difference on mechs (which I can understand). So looking at 10spd shifters, do I spend the extra £20 and go X9 over X7?

    Or

    Do I spend the same as what the 10 spd X7 would cost and get the 9 spd X9?

    I can’t overly see the necessity for 10 spd but as I am buying new and future proofing future purchases my thoughts are to go 10 spd now. In a few years will we be looking at 9 spd the same way we look at 8 spd now??

    njee20
    Free Member

    Wider range cassette available on 10 speed, so you can have a better spread of gears. I’d go 10 speed if starting from scratch.

    Shimano road stuff isn’t cross compatible, SRAM is, but a SRAM road mech won’t do a 36t cassette, so you’ll have to use an MTB mech for it to work properly.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    What njee said.

    I’d go 10speed, I probably will next summer, I’ve a crate of old 9speed stuff that needs wrecking in the meantime.

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    a Shimano road mech will only stretch to a 28t sprocket, which limits you somewhat.

    A lot of this depends on whether you want SRAM or Shimano.

    If you want the latter then some options are:

    1×9 with a 11-32 or 11-34 MTB cassette, 9spd shifter and 9spd mech
    1×10 with a 11-32 Sram Apex cassette, SLR770 shifter, and 9spd MTB mech
    1×10 with a 11-32, 11-34, 11-36 MTB cassette, 10spd XT shifter and 10spd mech.

    If I was going from scratch (and had no other donor bikes…) then I’d get the last option.

    I agree with the point about the shifter being the important bit.

    Jackass123456789
    Free Member

    Coming from SS, I only need to run gears due to moving to a full sus and as I have coped pretty well with a 32 – 16/18T even a road cassette at 11/26 or 11/28 seems quite manageable.

    All this mech stuff is new to me!
    Not sure I really need a 32t out back and a long flappy mech 😆

    Oh and I really need to run a 32 up front as I have XTR cranks and don’t want the expense of buying another special ring!

    I am leaning towards say an X9 10spd shifter, Apex or Rival rear mech (short cage) and a 11-28 cassette.

    However, maybe a XT 10 spd shifter, SLX mech (mid cage) and a 11-32 cassette is another option.

    njee20
    Free Member

    Oh and I really need to run a 32 up front as I have XTR cranks and don’t want the expense of buying another special ring!

    Which cranks? Nowt special about XTRs since M960s easy enough to get any size ring you want.

    I don’t really see what you’re trying to achieve myself. If you’re going for a road cassette then 10 speed’s a waste of time IMO. The whole point of 10 speed is that you can run a wider range cassette. A close ratio block is a sod all advantage on an MTB IMO, you just end up shifting multiple gears in one.

    So yes… if you want to do a sort of half job, with none of the simplicity of SS, but none of the range advantages of having gears then yes an 11-26 with a road mech will be fine (although I’d just go 9 speed, SLX shifter, 105 mech or something).

    If you want to actually capitalise on the advantages that 10 speed offers then a 36t ring with an 11-36 cassette and an MTB mech is a very versatile set up.

    backhander
    Free Member

    Thinking of 1 x 10 with a 11 – 36 cassette. Am I right in thinking I’d need a chain guide? If so, would I need a certain type? Any recommendations? also, would a GS type rear mech be suitable? Sorry for the hijack BTW!

    GW
    Free Member

    if staring from scratch I’d go 8speed every time

    njee20
    Free Member

    A GS Shadow mech may work, you’d have to try it.

    A chain device is certainly a very good idea, some folk will tell you they’ve ridden around the world without dropping the chain, but you can’t pedal it back on as with gears, so it’s a faff when it drops off. Superstar do an excellent BB mounted one for no money at all. If you need a seat tube mounted one you can pay a small fortune for MRP or E13 ones, or make one, which is what I did with a Superstar BB mounted one, a DMR seat tube clamp and some rack stays!

    TheSwede
    Free Member

    Just gone 1 x 10 on my burly bouncer. 36 x 11 / 36. Tested at afan and it’s great. Wave bye bye to the granny and front mech. There will be some long steep climbs somewhere that I won’t get up but meh, I can live with the failure.

    Digger90
    Free Member

    Coming from SS, I only need to run gears due to moving to a full sus and as I have coped pretty well with a 32 – 16/18T even a road cassette at 11/26 or 11/28 seems quite manageable.

    So 1 x 9 or 1 x 10 is irrelevant.

    Just put a single cog on the rear with a derailleur to cope with the changing chain length under compression and you’re done.

    backhander
    Free Member

    Thanks njee, good info. I have an unorthodox front mech mounting (stub) so will have to do some research into what I can and can’t use.
    Swede, glad to hear a real experience and that it’s positive. I won’t be going with as big a chainring as you though!

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    I am leaning towards say an X9 10spd shifter, Apex or Rival rear mech (short cage) and a 11-28 cassette.

    or a SL-R770 10spd shifter, Ultegra mech and 11-28 Ultegra cassette?

    I agree though, if you don’t need the big range cassette then the argument to go 10spd is weaker. If you stick with 9spd then all the road bits are compatible.

    e.g. XTR M970 9spd shifter, Ultegra 6700 mech and 12-27 Ultegra cassette?

    Jackass123456789
    Free Member

    102 BCD on my ‘Jones’ XTR cranks.

    I agree though, if you don’t need the big range cassette then the argument to go 10spd is weaker.

    Hence my question!

    I can’t make my mind up, there isn’t a real need but as I am spending out money and doing this from scratch am I better off doing it 10 Spd and keeping it up to date, so if circumstances change in the future I don’t have to buy all the kit again to make it 10 spd and possibly be restricted in availability of 9 spd components in 18 months time say?

    backhander
    Free Member

    Do you need a 10 speed specific chain ring?

    philconsequence
    Free Member

    is it possible to go 1X4 if you removed various rings from the cassette?

    GW
    Free Member

    yes

    njee20
    Free Member

    9 speed road stuff has been ‘obsolete’ for 7 years, and you can still get it, as that’s what you’re talking about using I wouldn’t worry too much.

    Again though, if you’re going to use a close ratio cassette I’d go 9 speed.

    You don’t need a 10 speed specific chain ring, even if running a double/triple 9 speed ones are fine.

    I’d think about what you’re trying to achieve though. As Digger90 said you can stick with SS by bodging a mech. If you’re gonna go to the faff of adding a mech, shifter and cassette why limit your ratios?

    messiah
    Free Member

    I’d be tempted to go 8 or 9spd… reason is the extra tension from running a short cage Saint rear mech which prevents it battering around as much as other mechs. Will also help with the front chainring guide issue.

    Short cage Saint is also lighter than XT… true 🙄

    Or SS it with a Rohloff tensioner and chainguide.

    oldgit
    Free Member

    Do you have to run a chain device when going 1×9?

    I’ll be building a Croix De Fer for pure off road and really won’t need a big ring.
    It’s the aesthetics of devices that I don’t like 😐

    njee20
    Free Member

    Do you have to run a chain device when going 1×9?

    A chain device is certainly a very good idea, some folk will tell you they’ve ridden around the world without dropping the chain, but you can’t pedal it back on as with gears, so it’s a faff when it drops off. Superstar do an excellent BB mounted one for no money at all. If you need a seat tube mounted one you can pay a small fortune for MRP or E13 ones, or make one, which is what I did with a Superstar BB mounted one, a DMR seat tube clamp and some rack stays!

    Edit: actually another option is the Paul Components one, which is seat post mounted and very neat. I have one 34.9 one I need to sell, totally unused. It wouldn’t fit as I need a high clamp. They’re the most discreet of the chain guides IMO.

    HermanShake
    Free Member

    Less is more

    tcas146
    Free Member

    SRAM 1×10 x7 or x9 are both good, shimano SLX 11-36 on the back, 36t on the front. Superstar chain guide or e13 if your feeling flush. simples!

    TheSwede
    Free Member

    Or do this and no chain device required.

    campfreddie
    Free Member

    i’m running 1×9 with sram 11-34 cassette, xtr rear mech, sram chain, 34t blackspire mono veloce chainring and superstar xcr chain device.

    the xcr device is good when set up properly. i needed to invest in a e-type bottom bracket to ensure that the chainline was bang on. it will rub at the top and bottom of the 11-34 ranges, but not too annoyingly.

    1×9 rocks… i ride with my mates who are all on 3×9 or 3×10 setups and i’m giving precious little away to them other than saving weight and complexity.

    st
    Full Member

    If you want a short cage mech and decide to run 9 speed then you could go for a Saint, take the little lloy mode adjuster off and it’ll do up to a 34 or 36tooth large sprocket (can’t remember which off the top of my head)

    resisted
    Free Member

    Going to be honest, why run a road mech when you could run a short cage X.7/9?

    My rival groupo on my CX bike has been a steaming heap of turd, every single part bar the BB (odd I know) has given up on me over the winter at some point (rear mech rattled itself apart to the point that you wouldn’t even be able to use it as a ghetto tensioner), whereas I’ve been battering SRAM MTB groupos for years and they’re all still going strong.

    njee20
    Free Member

    Campfreddie does that guide actually work? Seems to be a long way away from the chain ring!

    TheSwede, yes you can do that, ends up weighing more than a guide though, if such things bother one.

    I’m certainly very happy with 1×10 though for racing (36t ring, 11-36 block), wouldn’t go back to a triple for anything, would probably still run a double on a more trail orientated bike I must say.

    Jackass123456789
    Free Member

    Going to be honest, why run a road mech when you could run a short cage X.7/9?

    Yes X7 and X9 short cage mechs are more available now and certainly an option. Road mechs in short cage were much more available when I last did this and used to be the better way to go. That saying, my old 105 mech on my DH bike lasted well and held up to some abuse. However I never went out in mud like I’ve seen some CX’ers go out in 😉

    I will likely, going on the advice here, stick to 9 spd, buy better spec stuff and run a close ratio cassette out back. I really won’t need a higher gear than a 32×28 for the hills we ride and I think the lowest gear (11) is more important for my configuration.

    I will also likely run the SS Plasma guide with the lower roller. I like the idea of the top only one but again, for my style of riding and the abuse it will get I will prefer the security of a top and bottom roller.

    Milkie
    Free Member

    DT Swiss do a 9-36 tooth, 10 speed cassette.

    Tallpaul
    Full Member

    njee20 – Member

    I’m certainly very happy with 1×10 though for racing (36t ring, 11-36 block), wouldn’t go back to a triple for anything, would probably still run a double on a more trail orientated bike I must say.

    Are you running a Shimano Shadow rear mech? If so, is it GS or SGS?

    campfreddie
    Free Member

    Campfreddie does that guide actually work? Seems to be a long way away from the chain ring!

    that photo was taken before i set it up properly… but yes, it does appear to work

    backhander
    Free Member

    Sorry for the resurrection;
    Before I throw all of my 9 speed XT and XTR stuff on the classifieds, does anyone know if there is a huge difference between 32/36 and 22/32?
    Thanks
    EDIT; search has revealed this thread; http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/another-1×10-question

    Very helpful.

    john_l
    Free Member

    32t Middleburn Uno, 12-28 9spd SRAM cassette, medium cage XT Shadow r mech & a Paul keeper on my 29er. Coming from 8 years of mostly singlespeeding I’m quite enjoying the extra few gears! Got 34t & 32t cassettes in the parts bin if needed.

    Clink
    Full Member

    32t Middleburn Uno, 12-28 9spd SRAM cassette, medium cage XT Shadow r mech & a Paul keeper on my 29er. Coming from 8 years of mostly singlespeeding I’m quite enjoying the extra few gears! Got 34t & 32t cassettes in the parts bin if needed.

    That’s nice. I’m about to do something similar.

Viewing 35 posts - 1 through 35 (of 35 total)

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