- This topic has 42 replies, 17 voices, and was last updated 8 years ago by Kryton57.
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1 x 11 XT – which ratio?
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Kryton57Full Member
Currently 2 x 10 slx standard 32/11 ratios
I want to go to 1 x 11 to reduce weight also rather not replace worn 2 x 10 gear.
What ratios do I want? I’m not strong climber so I was thinking 42/11 so I have the bailout, but I want the sprint / flat pace so would 32 up front be a mad choice?
nickjbFree MemberFront 1x rings are very cheap at the moment. Get the 11-42 and 32 and see how you get on. If it’s not right buy another front ring.
sweaman2Free MemberI’m not a fan of 1x – I’m running 2×11 as I like to spin up climbs and I also like to spin on the flats…
I thought 2×10 had a 34-11 at the back? Anyway 24/32=0.75; 32/42=0.762
So it’ll be oh so slightly harder on the ups than current.
If you do as Nick suggests make sure you crank can take a 30 tooth ring (or lower)..
sweaman2Free MemberOut of curiosity how much weight do you think you’re going to save going 1×11 from 2×10?
Sweamrs is still on a 3×9 (XT/XTR) set-up and contemplating an upgrade for her bike but can’t decide what option would be best. We’re doing BCBR as a pair in 2016 and so by day 7 a low gear is going to be very attractive but in the meantime she’s also doing some racing where 28 to 11 doesn’t seem a high enough gear. Could go the switching out front ring route but seems a phaff.
Kryton57Full MemberNot a lot of weight but every gram counts.
Sweaman2 I can buy it with 34, 32, or 30 up front. Slightly harder may not be an issue, I’m a convert to the SS mantra of its just faster if you have to use it. As long as my climbing doesn’t become impossible, but I’d rarely be using the 34 (yes you are right) in the small ring until last lap/exhaustion.
Sounds like a 32 would be right.
RamseyNeilFree Member32 is what I use on my race bike with 29 inch wheels . I use an Absoluteblack oval chainring and think it really helps when you are struggling to get the cranks round , in fact wanting to run an oval chainring was the main driver for me to go 1 11 . If you are worried about your high speed gear being a bit low you could consider a Sram casette which has the benefit of a 10 sprocket which will give you 10% more top end grunt , downside is you will need an XD driver .
chickenmanFull MemberAt the point where I went 1×10 expander rings were only just coming in. I reckoned that a 30t chainring with a 11-36 would loose me 3 gears off the top and a half off the bottom (over the lowest gear I ever used on 3×9). This has worked perfectly for me (26″ rear wheel though), never need a lower gear and it seems pointless putting a 32t chainring on to gain just a half gear at the top; I guess it depends if you pedal downhill or not.
Kryton57Full MemberWhere I am there isn’t enough downhill to need to pedal hard down it. My modus operandum will be pushing hard over the top on flat singletrack. So 42/11 at the back it is. But 32 or 34 at the front hmmm…
sweaman2Free Member32 oval 😀 – So if I understand correctly it’s like a 32 at the top / bottom and a 34 in the mid-stroke. If I’ve got it wrong then a 34 oval…
Kryton57Full MemberBig gears, pushing hard for speed is what I mean, TT style. I tend to be slow up hills, but fast(er) on the flats. I meant over the top of the pedal stroke.
Looking at the ratio’s, it’s only the top half of the cassette that changes. So it’s definitely 42/11 for me at the back. I don’t use the 11t now I sit in the middle 3rd of the cassette really so would I need 34 up front? I guess not.
turbo1397Free MemberLol.. I’m going a 28t at the front as I like spinning up the hills. Not fussed pushing it that hard on the downs!
howsyourdad1Free MemberI run 40-11 with a 32 front 1 x 10 and its great . I can only imagine how earth shatteringly good 1 X11 is .
Kryton57Full MemberDo you know what, sarcasm aside I have a feeling that 40-11 / 32 would force me to not compromise on the climbs, and might help me be a bit faster by not offering the bail out.
After all I’m in the glorious SE, not massive hills of Yorkshire.
teethgrinderFull MemberWent:
1×9 (32t front, 34t rear) – hard work but do-able
1×10 (32t front, 40t rear) – liked it a lot
1×11 (32 front, 42t rear) – a bit like 40t but a bit easier.All Shimano mechs, cassette and shifters, apart from Hope T-Rex. New M8000 shifter and mech are lovely and loads better than the old kit. Don’t like SRAM so can’t compare.
patagonianFree MemberI’ve just changed my carbon hard tail from 2×10 SRAM X9 to 1×11 M8000. I did it for a number of reasons but mainly because I couldn’t use the 39/11 so what was the point of having it? I went for a 32 up front which seems ok for now.
I’ve only ridden it twice so far but the ratios seem about right, 32/11 is just about ok – a bit low on a long fast section but how many of those do you get in a xc race?Maybe I will get used to it but I’m not so keen on the new feel to the Shimano shifters, it feels heavy like scram but not as snappy.
mikewsmithFree MemberI’m not a fan of 1x – I’m running 2×11 as I like to spin up climbs and I also like to spin on the flats…
My 1x is about the same as 24×31 I still spin up big hills. There is a lot of opinion on 1x but it’s really easy to look the numbers up. I dropped 3 gears from my range going 10-42.
Kryton57Full MemberAny suggestions for a decent ratio calculator so I can have a play?
whitestoneFree MemberThere’s one on the Sheldon Brown site that will give you ratios, gear inches, gear gain, etc.
DT78Free MemberI’m 1×10 on the big full suss 26er, 32 x 11/34 which is fine for all day trundling round Afan. On the 29er race bike I’m 2 x 10 28/40 x 11/34 wouldn’t want to race without a granny even round the SE. The gorricks have plenty of short nasty climbs.
Next time I drop into the tt position on the bike I’ll chuckle to myself about “pushing hard over the top on the flat” 🙂
Kryton57Full MemberI’m 1×10 on the big full suss 26er, 32 x 11/34 which is fine for all day trundling round Afan. On the 29er race bike I’m 2 x 10 28/40 x 11/34 wouldn’t want to race without a granny even round the SE. The gorricks have plenty of short nasty climbs.
After playing on Shelton’s site (thanks Whitestone) and seeing as this is basically my only bike, leaving it as 2 X 10 may be the best thing. After all it works fine now. But I did want to go XT to shed a small amount of weight over slx, so I’d better see if theres much of a difference in crank sets.
nickjbFree MemberOne of the good things about trying 1x is that it’s all wear components. Buy the bits, try it, if you don’t get on with it swap back when they start to wear. Not much to lose and it might all work out
gazhurstFree MemberKryton57 – I’ve tried both a 2 x 11 and a 1 x 11 set up on numerous occasions and tested all the different combinations of 32, 34, 36 and even 38t chainrings.
My set up isn’t really comparible as I ride a 27.5 XC race bike but I have settled on a 2 x 11 with 36/26 up front and a 40-11 cassette. the only other set up I’d use on the race bike now would be a 38/28 but that all depends on the course.
For example, if the course was a power course (think Thetford), I’d run a 38 so that I have the top end to stay with the 29ers but if it was a climbers course, then 36 is good.
I ran 36/26 on Sunday and didnt once go into the 26 ring but also didnt once use the 11t cassette ring….
After all that, my advice would be to try a few different combinations and see how you feel…get a 2×11 set up and you can always run it 1x anyway….
The-Swedish-ChefFree Member1 * 11 XT here, 11-40 cassette with a 36t AbsoluteBlack chainring, on a 29er hardtail.
Used mostly for marathon distance racing rather than multiple lap XC style.
I found I needed the 36t up front so I didn’t spin out keeping up with the 10t cassette guys on the “controlled start” sections that are normally a couple of KM’s on tarmac and ridden at well over 40km/h.
whitestoneFree Member1x systems are as much about simplicity as they are about weight saving: things getting harder? go down a gear; getting easier? go up one. There’s no having to think: “If I go from this ring to that one do I need to go up/down a gear or two at the back?”. Also, if you run a dropper post then not having the front shifter frees up space on the bar for the dropper remote.
As far as front ring sizing goes: On a 29er HT (mainly ride in the Dales and the Lakes) I started with 30T, when that wore out I moved to 32T partly because I needed a new front ring there and then and the shop didn’t have a 30T. I use the 40T extender a bit more with the 32T, might get another 30T so I can switch back and forth as I require.
gazhurstFree MemberI found I needed the 36t up front so I didn’t spin out keeping up with the 10t cassette guys on the “controlled start” sections that are normally a couple of KM’s on tarmac and ridden at well over 40km/h.
Exactly my problem….I have to dig in massively on the starts/flats to stay with the 29ers.
I enjoy it though as it makes me think tactically about where I and the bike work better etc
Kryton57Full MemberI found I needed the 36t up front so I didn’t spin out keeping up with the 10t cassette guys on the “controlled start” sections that are normally a couple of KM’s on tarmac and ridden at well over 40km/h
Now see, thats important; I (usually) have a good start / finish sprint in me.
gazhurst thanks thats useful, given we ride the same multiple series.
Re the weight issue; It turns out that changing my current worn 2 x SLX cassette and chain to an XT / KNC combo would save 150g by itself. Changing the crankset to XT another 80g, so there is 1/2lb.
With 1 x 11, its almost the same as the cassette is a whopping 400+g, there’s only about 70g less for 1 x 11 plus the simplicity issue.
In my mind, and given this is my ONE bike used for short course racing, socials and 8/12/24hr racing, I’m better off staying 2 x 10 to give me a wide range and replacing the worn bits with the lighter stuff which is a good compromise.
Cost wise: 1 x 11 groupset I can have for £294, the replacement bits to go from SLX to XT £135.
I’d be touching sub 24lb on a FS just by going to XT/KNC albeit only just at 23.9lb (according to manufacturers published component weights.
No doubt in reality about 24.5lb on Njee’s scales of truth 😀
The-Swedish-ChefFree MemberOut of interest going from 2 * 10 to 1 * 10 an upgrading parts saved me 350grams.
whitestoneFree MemberIn your specific circumstances the only reason I can see to move to a 1x system is reliability as the front mech is more likely to have problems if you change gear when the drive train’s under stress
gazhurstFree MemberThe other thing to contemplate is how long will the older XT stuff be around for? Probably a while yet I guess but it’s going to slowly disappear at some point.
Yes, the new 11 speed XT is more expensive but I assure you, you wouldn’t be disappointed.
I should point out that I do use a 1×11 XT set up on my trail bike which comes in at around 25lb. Yes its hard work climbing fireroads alongside 29ers but it works perfectly and I’d be happy to run it on a XC bike
Kryton57Full Member‘Chef- As far as I can ascertain from some brief browsing its the 11sp cassette which carries an enormous amount of weight.
Notwithstanding the reduction of losing a shifter and front mech of course.
Kryton57Full MemberYes, the new 11 speed XT is more expensive but I assure you, you wouldn’t be disappointed.
Hmmm. I need to think about it more. I’m thinking if I do I may now go 42-11 with 34 upfront for a wider range. In fact thats very close to my 2 x 10 according to Sheldon.
gazhurstFree MemberIs weight saving REALLY all that???
Its probably the kind of weight that can be saved elsewhere on the bike/person…something as simple as tyres, grips, saddle etc and even kit/shoes.
Kryton57Full MemberUnless you did all that already 🙂
Remember from the other thread, I don’t have the luxury of big watts/kg, so changes to the bike are of a help to me. 1/2lb isn’t to be sniffed at.
The-Swedish-ChefFree MemberYes, moving from 1 * 10 to 1 * 11 added weight as I wasn’t prepared to pay for a light weight cassette and the XT one, whilst “cheap” is certainly not light!
nreFree MemberThis is a great online gear calculator with dropdowns for standard cassettes etc:
http://gear-calculator.com/Enables you to compare 2 setups, including wheel size differences. I’ve used it to choose gearing on my recent bike swap, going from 26″ 2×10 to 27.5″ 1×11, direct linky to this comparison
This has lost me about half a gear at the bottom end, with a slightly longer top gear.
Out of interest the new bike was 2×10 off the shelf, swapped straight to 1×11, I’ve weighed all the bits and saved 456g (pretty much 1 lb) going from SLX 2×10 to XT 1×11 (with SRAM 10-42 cassette). EDIT: that did include the original HG50 11-36 cassette @398g vs SRAM 10-42 @390g!
pete68Free MemberI also do the occasional gorrick race and 12/24 hour races. I’m using 1×10 with an expander ring 11-42 and an oval 34 front ring. It’s fine for my local riding in the central south. If I lived somewhere hillier I’d probably drop to 32. As has been said , rings are quite cheap so you could swap depending on the type of race/course.
Kryton57Full MemberThanks nre
How cool is that!
So with 11/42 and 34T i’d basically be losing my highest and lowest gears on my 2 x 10 setup – the gears I’d use the least anyway. I’m getting convinced!
rings are quite cheap so you could swap depending on the type of race/course.
Worth noting, thanks.
nreFree MemberHow cool is that!
It is very handy, the visualisation of the ratios & gaps is so much easier than comparing numbers…
My previous spreadsheet is now in the recycle bin…
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