probably not, unless you keep pedaling then the tension holds the chain on.

If you do it you should use a chainring with no shifting ramps, tall teeth will help keep it on. My commuter has recently been changed to 1×9 with a 44T blackspire downhill ring on the front and no problems so far.

The clues are there…

I’d not want to do it on a bike used off road.

It’ll be fine if you enjoy dropping your chain and slamming yer nuts into your stem every couple minutes

Good lord, this topic must be the one that crops up the most and has the most controversy associated with it.

It should be a sticky thread.

You can’t ride off road, over rough terrain, on a single ring set up without at least a top guide, and not expect to drop your chain fairly regularly and anyone who says differently is just not trying hard enough.

🙂

Because if it was ‘proper’ off road, and I use that in the most ironic sense, he most likely wouldn’t have a ‘commuter’ bike, nor would he be using a 44t single ring.

I made an assumption, but I’m going to stand by my assumption that it’s at best a tame off-road commute, and most likely a road one.

I love your sense of humour Rachel 😀

BTW did you go with Bike Verbier?

Am I missing something but does THIS not have any form of guide on it? Maybe it’s just been built up for display and would be ridden with one, I don’t know.

And apparently it works really rather well!

Yep me to; I can’t visualise what it’s doing either for the same reasons you’re saying and I was skeptical it would work until I read some initial reviews of riders doing the DH lines in Whistler saying it does.

I was thinking along the same lines as you about resistance but thinking it would surely increase wear on the chain and teeth and as they wore, the degree of security would also diminish.

Tried it for a few weeks and got hacked off with the chain jumping off so I fitted a chainguide device from Superstar. Now no probs…

On my C456 hardtail – Bash ring on one side and an n-gear Jump Stop on the other. That combined with a short cage X9 mech and chain length set for a hard tail. Oh and a proper single ring is essential. I use an FSA Single DH ring which is much better at keeping the chain on.

Works pretty well, though the Jump Stop is just attached to the seat tube and slips round sometimes even though it’s done up very tight. Mainly if there’s a chain suck incident and something pops off somewhere and jams, but not sure what/how it does it. Rare though.

Next up is my full sus converting to 1×10, but for that I’ve got an e.13 TRS+ which is a lightweight Trail/AM guide with top guide and bottom roller. After the hassles I’ve had with it in 2×10 set up (X0) and chain jump/drop loads without a guide, and additionally still hassle with an MRP X-Guide which just has a bottom guide, not top, then the number one priority really I feel is something to keep the chain on at the top and as much tension in the chain that you can get away with safely. Bear in mind you need to account for the rear suspension with a full sus and the chain will be naturally slacker than on a hard tail at times.

That Paul’s jobby looks good. Does it rub in outer gears?
Ps how much weight do you save by ditching rings ,mech and shifter. My front mech picks up stones and never works. Have just gone 3×10 and will see if I need other rings before converting.

Is it a daft question or idea?

I have a bb mounted Stinger on my Mega. If I go 1×10 can I use this with ISG mounted top guide or will they foul each other?