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  • 1 degree difference of head angle?
  • Stablebarns
    Free Member

    A Ragley Marley and a Whyte 901 are my current comparisons.

    One reviewer (Mbr or Bike Radar) described the Marley as having taken Whyte’s award winning geometry.

    They look similar… But the Marley is a degree slacker in Head Angle!

    Seeing as there is an obsession with slackness nowdays, I wondered what difference it would make?

    I’m coming off an old 26″ Bfe which I thought was fairly long and slackish compared to my old 5 spot. But the geo charts say the Bfe is nothing compared to today’s geo.

    I’m interested in general theory as well as any actual experience.

    Mind you, with Ragley’s current inability to have any bikes for sale anywhere, I may have no choice in my choice. But still keen to know how slack is slack? I’ve never felt the Bfe to be twitchy on decents and I’ve ragged it as much as I would dare.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    I haven’t ridden the 901 but I’ve been enjoying my Marley. I can really recommend it. I’m now very interested in finding out what a “modern geometry” FS feels like.

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    One angle on it’s own is less important. It really depends on what you do with the whole thing/

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    I think it’s a pretty obvious difference but I’m rather the royal with the legume problem when it comes to geometry.

    However, it’s easy to change the head angle, either through fork length or headset – you can go up to 2 deg either way with Works headset, 1.5 deg either way with a Cane Creek, whilst the rest of the geometry is more fixed.

    My old hardtail was a Cotic Soul, briefly with 100m forks, then 140mm for years and years. I replaced it with a Bird Zero AM which in the stock configuration (150mm fork) is longer, lower and a bit slacker. I’ve ridden it with a -2 deg Works zero stack headset and 130mm fork and Cane Creek -0.5 deg external cup headset and 140mm fork (64.3 and 65 deg static respectively). The latter setup gave the same as stock geometry but 1/2 deg slacker whilst the former was lower BB and longer reach and steeper seat angle and even slacker, and that combination was too extreme for my local trails.

    Have a look at the BB height/drop, the seat angle, and the reach too. I’d say they’re the other three most critical numbers. Personally I think the Bird Zero AM is pretty dialled so I’d consider that – and see how those other two compare.

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