First of all I think it’s worth answering some of the questions I’ve been asked about my Five.
“Not tempted by burlier suspension then Sim? CCDB option or 150 / 160 fork etc.”
Yes, but not yet. I’m definitely going to try the Five with a 160mm fork and a coil shock as it’s a setup I imagine a lot of people will want to run if they take their Five to the Alps. The Five is available in an ‘AM’ spec with a Fox 36 and the option to upgrade the Fox Float to a Cane Creek Double Barrel so it’ll be interesting to see how the Five feels in that set up. For now though I want something that is a bit lighter and more rounded than the AM build.
“It looks fantastic. How tall are you?”
Five ten in my five tens.
“I’m surprised Sim that you didn’t manage to get one of the Strange Evo Fives with your connections. 16″ standover height with the top tube length of the 18″ – perfect.”
I did actually ask about one of these but they had all been sold and there are no plans to make any more. I think in the end though I got the right size, the top tube length of the 18″ would have stretched me a bit more than I’d have liked and it would have played on my mind. The 16″ feels more suited to my preferences.
“Just can’t wait for mine to arrive now, another 5-10″ on a 16″, reckon a 17″ is long overdue!”
Whilst a 17″ would be great I can understand from Orange’s point of view why it would be a headache; another size to build, new jigs, stock control, ditherers trying to choose between a 16″, 17″ AND 18″…
“Those wheels look a bit fragile! How are they holding up?”
Well, they haven’t folded, dented or gone wonky yet but the freehub has needed some love and oil (mostly oil) to keep the pawls moving smoothly. This is easily done as you can pull the freehub out without any tools, but I can’t help thinking that may also be the cause of the problems too.
Any other questions post them below and I’ll get you answers in the next write-up.
A bit of rub here and there. The patina of wear starting to develop makes the frame feel more like my bike than just another test bike.
Matt has previously reviewed the 2011 Fox 32 TALAS Terralogic forks in the Grinder section of issue 59 (Premier users can see it here), and did a great job explaining how the Terralogic system works and his opinion of them but I thought I’d let you know my thoughts on them too.
Just taking a look through the name of the fork there’s lots to talk about, 32mm stanchions with Kashima coating, TALAS (Travel Adjust Linear Air Spring) offering the ability to run the fork with 140mm or 110mm of travel at the turn of a knob, and Terralogic (More on this in a mo), and on this set the 15mm QR axle. That’s a lot of tech and spec for one pair of forks.
Looking at that long list of features the most interesting, and unfamiliar, part is probably the Terralogic part. Essentially it’s a platform threshold for your forks, allowing you to tune how much they move relative to trail input. This means you can have a fork that feels completely locked out until you actually hit something, then it opens up and you get the full use of the 140mm of travel, closing again after the bump has been dealt with. There are 15 clicks worth of adjustment so getting something to suit is easily achievable. The Terralogic is also good at letting you know when you’ve dialled in too much platform as the forks feel like they are locked out and your wrists start to hurt, it takes a few rides to get the tuning just right, although some people will probably find the feel and way they work a bit odd. Riders who prefer a more obviously suspensiony feel to their forks won’t get the most out of the Terralogic system and would find a 32 RLC a better choice.
The Terralogic is great for people, like me, who run their forks relatively firm to help keep them riding higher in their travel on corners and descents. On a Float RLC I run a fair dose of low speed compression for that reason. In a sense these forks are the Fox-feel amplified; taught, firm and composed and more suited to working at higher speeds.
More info can be found on Mojo’s webpage here.
The Michelin Wild Rock’r bears more than a passing resemblance to Monsieur Bibendum’s classic Comp, the tyre that changed the way tyres were designed and the genesis of quite a lot of imitations.
I’ve stuck these on the Five as the Conti Rubber Queens were starting to feel out of their depth in the autumnal gloop and I wanted something with a more aggressive tread pattern to find purchase in the mulch. So far so good, but there are some niggles, there’ll be a full review in issue 62.
The only fly in the mud-loving ointment has been the Shimano SLX brakes.Despite re-bleeds, new pads and cleaning the discs with alcohol wipes they just wont stop me. Pulling on the brakes leads to a gradual loss of speed, followed by a lot of noise, mild panic, further clenching and when my knuckles are white, the wheel locking up. Lack of ability to stop quickly severely limits the ability to ride quickly. Having to ‘drag-brake’ downhill for when you need to lose a lot of speed isn’t ideal, I want all the power there exactly when I want it with the ability to feather it up to that point.
What’s Next?
I’ll be looking to sort out the braking problem as matter of priority as it’s really starting to grate now and feels like it’s ruining the bike.
I’ve become obsessed with finding a nice seatclamp, the one that comes with the frame is functional but not exactly a looker. Suggestions welcome.
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good write up
SLX’s are generally very good. Leaky piston seals?
Sim, you said in you’re first Five blog entry you wanted a bike that would “be up for some enduro stage-race action”, what races are planning to do next year?
Arghh, where’s the edit function?
Where are your bar-end plugs young man?
Become too used to Saint brakes? 😉
FWIW most of the SLX brakes I’ve encountered have been disappointing.
On some Shimano brakes I wonder if some of the lack-of-powerness is due to the rotor. I’ve tried other (non-Shimano) rotors on Shimano brakes and they improved the power and bite. Might be worth a try if you’ve some spare rotors lying around instead of going straight for the bleed kit.
Madison (Shimano distributors) are sending through fresh rotors and pads for me to do a full swap over to see if that cures the problem, they suspect the rotors have become contaminated so no amount of cleaning will help them.
Pimpmaster Jazz: You are correct I should have plugs, can’t find any at the moment though. I’ll see what’s hiding in t’office.
So is Terralogic like the Brain on some Spesh bikes?
Deity make the best looking seatclamp.
Surprised to hear that about SLX brakes. Mine were spectacularly powerful before I put contaminated pads in..
The Thomson seatclamp is lovely – no need for QR with that seatpost either… nice and clean looking.
Hope seatclamp is nice n reliable
I found the XTR discs made a big improvement to my old Saint’s. Not as good as new XT with old XT discs (on my other bike), but way better than they were on old XT discs. If that makes the sense?
My daughter built her Five Diva with SLX groupset and had similar brake problems straight out of the box. Swapped them for her pink Hope’s.
Still, nice looking Five you’ve got there.
I’ve found lack of power on an old LX caliper. I put this down to them being in 2-parts (like current SLX). Replaced them with a 1-piece XTR caliper and the power was noticeably returned. Pads, lever, rotor, hose all remained the same, which is why i put it down to the flexy 2-piece caliper being responsible for lack of power.
i have had no problems with my slx brakes since using the 6 bolt new style shimano xt rotors – spider mounted-, and some nuke proof ‘trail’ pads f+r- also with goodridge hoses (which will ‘pimp’ your five also) and i’m a big bloke at 6ft 2, try it it’s cheaper than a new brakeset, and has proved top notch over the last welsh “summer” so to speak!
also to add to last comment , a gold hope single bolt seat clamp would be just the ticket, and will match bars and post, with as usual hope quality build, plus to get things matching even more- barplugs?- try hope grip doctors- in gold of course!
+1 on the Thomson seatclamp, lovely bit of kit. Plus you get a lovely Thomson purse to keep your change in.
Straitline make the best looking seatclamp in my opinion, it used to be very pricey, but I think CRC have them at a ‘normal’ price.
Marta brakes and a Salsa seat clamp (or Thomson)?
what about bikes for the vertically challenged, a 16″ for someone of 5’10” in height. Most of the time a 16″ is a small. The 14″ bike looks silly and squashed up, why dont they do a 16″ with a shorter top tube?
Sim, What color is that?
It’s raw with a lacquer coat.
Needs red and white components imo 😉
As Dave says it’s raw with a lacquer coating.
Black and gold is where it’s at. For now 🙂
Do you ask like this to Orange? They don´t offer that finish?
Maxpower check my first report for more details on the finish: http://www.singletrackworld.com/reviews/long-termers-sims-orange-five/
“…the rotors have become contaminated so no amount of cleaning will help them”
is a load of old chuff. I’d like to see some sort of surface analysis (or at least some XPS data) before I’ll believe that.
Sim, thanks and sorry.
Sim, try a Tune Werger Seatclamp.
http://www.poshbikes.com/product.php?id=13
bigrich, yep agreed. That is a load of rubbish. Give the rotors a good scrub with a brillo pad and some hot soapy water. Then rinse in isopropanol (alcohol). Then put some new pads in and go for a long ride. If the brakes still do not work then they need bleeding or the seals have gone etc.
Hope Gold Seatclamp to go with the dropper ‘post, wheels & Kashima coating on the forks….
I’ve got the QR version for my Barry White Inbred & it looks reet tasty.
KCNC do some nice bar plugs…….what happened to the X-Lite ones, can’t find them anywhere??!!
great stuff thanks Sim, love these updates. I’m a big fan of the Salsa liplock – similar to the Thomson jobby but a bit roundlier and pebbly.
Chromag seat clamp is the one, expensive, but worth every penny. I’d tried a few, including Hope, but the Chromag is the only one that really works for me.
Looks great. What happened to the SlopeStyle?
Crank Brothers seat clamp to match the wheels. I’ve been using one for a couple of years now and no problems so far.
My SLX brakes have been pish. Gradual slowing, rather than proper stopping.
I’m using a non QR Hope seat post clamp on my Orange holds the I900 seat post fine not moved in 12 months.
The Slx brakes I had on my P7 were really powerfull I had Slx disks 180mm and 160mm centre lock on Slx hubs.
Hey Sim, what did you do about the raw frame – did you lacquer it yourself, or is it still ‘raw’?
Matt
Hope seat clamps are too bulky IMHO.
Ive got a Hope seat clamp and it seams fine to me……As for the breaks i had no end of trouble with the SLX so i swapped to Hope Tech M4’s with a 203 floating disc at the front and a 183 floating at the back and to be honest ive never looked back …really responsive and stop exactly where i want too…